Choose your first via ferrata
Beginner via ferratas: 6 routes to get started
Where should you try your first via ferrata? Compare six routes around Lake Garda, the Dolomites and the Alps, with outing times, exposure and descents, separating accompanied first trips from later steps.
By Sferrati · Editorial update:
Where to start? Consider Colodri with a guide for a short approach; Marguerettaz for instruction that includes protected downclimbing; Fanes if you already hike and want a waterfall outing. Ra Pegna, Succetti and Picasass are next steps here, with more exposure or sustained climbing.
Easy does not mean risk-free. The final choice depends on preparation, support and conditions on the day.
Compare six routes
Times cover the stated itinerary and return, excluding breaks and delays; Ra Pegna starts at the hut. Elevation figures have different scopes, stated in each row: a protected section is not the entire outing. Open the notes for source details.
Scroll the table horizontally to compare all details.
| Route and area | Who for | Reference time | Elevation and scope | Grade and source | Exposure |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Ferrata ColodriArco · Trentino | Accompanied first outing | About 2 h | 280 m · outing | Easy on Sferrati; moderate on Garda Trentino | Ledges and short vertical steps |
| 2. Ferrata Hans MarguerettazMorgex · Valle d’Aosta | Accompanied first outing | About 1 h 30 · estimate | 230 m · ascent (LoveVDA) | PD · LoveVDA | Ladders and rock steps; protected return |
| 3. Cascate di FanesCortina d’Ampezzo · Veneto | Accompanied first outing | About 3 h 30 | 210 m · Sferrati record | Easy · Sferrati | Ledges above water, including downclimbing |
| 4. Ferrata Ra PegnaCortina d’Ampezzo · Veneto | After your first experiences | About 1 h 45 · from the hut | 247 m · loop from the hut | Easy · Cortina Dolomiti | Rock tower and ladder descent |
| 5. Ferrata Gianni SuccettiMese · Lombardia | After your first experiences | About 3 h | 180 m · Sferrati record | Moderate · Valchiavenna | Vertical walls and traverses |
| 6. Ferrata dei PicasassBaveno · Piemonte | After your first experiences | About 4 h · estimate | 320 m · via ferrata section | EEA-PD · Baveno Turismo | Pronounced: arête and optional bridge |
Where they are: the route map
Numbers match the table. Points locate the Sferrati records; they are not navigation tracks or precise start-point instructions.
From Lake Maggiore to the Dolomites: locate the six routes and open their notes from the map.
Which to choose: features and limits
The order groups accompanied first outings and later experiences. It is not an absolute difficulty ranking.
Arco · Trentino
1. Ferrata Colodri
Accompanied first outing
A short approach from Arco and an intermittent climb alternate walking with protected sections. Consider it with a mountain guide for a first outing without the logistics of a high-altitude route.
About 2 h · 280 m · outing
Read the full route description- What to assess
- Polished slabs and the final vertical step require careful footwork. Rungs do not eliminate exposure or falling-rock hazards.
- The descent
- Walk back via Santa Maria di Laghel and Arco. Extensions towards Monte Colt and Scaloni change the commitment and are not automatically part of this choice.
- When to choose another route
- Avoid wet rock, intense heat and crowding that makes safe spacing difficult.
Reading the times. Garda Trentino lists 2 h and 280 m for its itinerary. Sferrati lists a 10-minute approach and 30 minutes on the cable; those are not the total outing. Add breaks and learning time.
Local source: Garda Trentino · Consulted on 6 September 2026 · Sferrati record and conditions to check
Morgex · Valle d’Aosta
2. Ferrata Hans Marguerettaz
Accompanied first outing
This short route in the woods above Morgex can suit an accompanied teaching session. It avoids a long alpine ascent, but descending the protected sections also needs to be planned.
About 1 h 30 · estimate · 230 m · ascent (LoveVDA)
Read the full route description- What to assess
- Ladders, a corner and route-finding amongst the crag equipment need attention. Its short length makes it a teaching option with a guide, not an improvised walk.
- The descent
- LoveVDA recommends reversing the via ferrata. The woodland alternative includes unmarked terrain and should not be treated as an easy escape route.
- When to choose another route
- Avoid it without competent help for descending the cable or if you cannot identify the correct route.
Reading the times. LoveVDA lists 45 minutes one way and 230 m to the spur. About 1 h 30 is an estimate for going up and back on the same route, before practice and breaks. It excludes the Kirriaz variant.
Local source: LoveVDA · Turismo Valle d’Aosta · Consulted on 6 September 2026 · Sferrati record and conditions to check
Cortina d’Ampezzo · Veneto
3. Cascate di Fanes
Accompanied first outing
The protected waterfall trails alternate walking and short cable sections. Consider them for hikers seeking an accompanied first experience in the Dolomites.
About 3 h 30 · 210 m · Sferrati record
Read the full route description- What to assess
- Rock can be wet and ledges exposed. The Sferrati combination includes Giovanni Barbara, Lucio Delaiti and Cengia di Mattia, with short walls and protected downclimbing.
- The descent
- After the final protected section, trail 10 returns towards the car park. Agree on the combination and direction with your guide beforehand.
- When to choose another route
- Avoid it after heavy rain, with high water or when wet passages are beyond the group’s ability.
Reading the times. The 3 h 30 and 210 m refer to the Sferrati combination, not Giovanni Barbara alone. The record separates a 60-minute approach and 75 minutes of protected sections; allow for connecting trails, return and breaks too.
Local source: Cortina Dolomiti · Giovanni Barbara · Consulted on 6 September 2026 · Sferrati record and conditions to check
Cortina d’Ampezzo · Veneto
4. Ferrata Ra Pegna
After your first experiences
A short route above Rifugio Duca d’Aosta introduces a Dolomite rock tower. We place it in the next-step group: it is brief, but altitude and exposure require confidence with heights.
About 1 h 45 · from the hut · 247 m · loop from the hut
Read the full route description- What to assess
- A short vertical step interrupts the ledges; protected climbing continues beyond the summit. Do not confuse Ra Pegna with nearby Ra Bujela.
- The descent
- The descent includes protected rock steps and a ladder before returning to the hut. Reaching the summit does not end the cable work.
- When to choose another route
- Avoid lingering snow, forecast storms or a return plan incompatible with lift operating times.
Reading the times. Cortina Dolomiti lists 1 h 45 and 247 m starting and finishing at Rifugio Duca d’Aosta. The chairlift journey or walk up from Piè Tofana is extra.
Local source: Cortina Dolomiti · Consulted on 6 September 2026 · Sferrati record and conditions to check
Mese · Lombardia
5. Ferrata Gianni Succetti
After your first experiences
A short approach from Mese lets you focus on the climb. Sustained walls and exposure make it a next step here, despite the easy label in the catalogue.
About 3 h · 180 m · Sferrati record
Read the full route description- What to assess
- Successive protected walls and granite traverses require pacing and precise footwork, particularly where rungs do not guide every movement.
- The descent
- Trails and a mule track return to Mese. Save energy to complete the loop after the vertical section.
- When to choose another route
- Avoid it if sustained walls or exposure cause you to freeze, or with wet granite or excessive heat.
Reading the times. Valchiavenna tourism lists about 3 h overall and moderate difficulty. Sferrati lists a shorter time (1 h 45) and 180 m; this comparison uses the more conservative local time.
Local source: Consorzio Turistico Valchiavenna · Consulted on 6 September 2026 · Sferrati record and conditions to check
Baveno · Piemonte
6. Ferrata dei Picasass
After your first experiences
The granite climb above Lake Maggiore is a progression goal after easier routes. The view should not overshadow its sustained climbing and exposed arête.
About 4 h · estimate · 320 m · via ferrata section
Read the full route description- What to assess
- The crux rounds an exposed arête. A later Tibetan bridge can be bypassed, but bypassing it does not remove the earlier climbing difficulties.
- The descent
- Trail M3 descends from Monte Camoscio towards Baveno. Baveno Turismo allows about 80 minutes for this return after the via ferrata.
- When to choose another route
- Avoid making this your first trial if you do not know your response to exposure. Do not take the neighbouring La Miccia route, which has a different difficulty.
Reading the times. Estimate from Baveno Turismo: about 35 minutes approach, 2 h on the route and 80 minutes descent (3 h 55, rounded to 4 h). The 320 m refers to the ferrata, not the full outing. Breaks excluded.
Local source: Baveno Turismo · Consulted on 6 September 2026 · Sferrati record and conditions to check
Before you go
How to choose your first via ferrata
Plan for the least experienced person in the group. A suitable route leaves a margin for the approach, climb, descent and delays. For a first trip, choose a short route with straightforward logistics and favourable conditions with a mountain guide or on a course. Colodri, Marguerettaz and Fanes are accompanied options here, each with a different limitation: protected downclimbing at Morgex, water and exposure at Fanes, and slabs and vertical steps at Arco.
Easy, F and PD: understanding the grades
Grading is not always consistent, so the table names the source beside each grade. Technical difficulty alone does not measure exposure, descent effort or remoteness. A short PD route with qualified instruction can be a teaching option, but not every PD route suits a first experience. Read the crux and descent notes before choosing.
Essential equipment and preparation
You need a mountaineering helmet, harness and via ferrata set with an energy absorber, appropriate for the user and checked according to the manufacturers’ instructions. Add suitable footwear, water, food, layers, a headlamp and emergency supplies for the outing. Local guides and operators may offer rental equipment. Learn attachment, passing anchors and spacing through practical instruction; an online article cannot replace training.
Before you go: check every essential condition
These checks are not a score or a safety certificate. If an essential condition is missing, resolve it, change the route or postpone. Keep reassessing the weather, timing and group with your guide throughout the outing.
- Check current opening and conditions with local sources, and understand the approach and descent.
- Choose a favourable forecast for the entire outing with daylight to spare; do not plan to race a storm.
- Bring complete, appropriate, checked equipment and learn its correct use through practical instruction.
- Arrange competent support for your first trip and agree on the group’s experience and limits beforehand.
- Match fitness, confidence with exposure and timing to the whole itinerary, including the return.
Heights, children and going alone
A low grade does not automatically suit a child or someone afraid of heights. Consider cable reach, weight compatibility with the lanyard, attention and carabiner handling. Ask a mountain guide for an individual assessment for children. If you do not know how you react to exposure, start with accompanied instruction. Going alone on a first via ferrata adds problems that the incidental presence of other hikers cannot resolve.
Progressing after your first routes
Move to more sustained routes when you finish easier ones with energy and controlled technique. Increase one variable at a time: duration, exposure or difficulty. Ra Pegna, Succetti and Picasass appear as next steps for different reasons, not as a universal ranking. If a route took you to your limit, consolidate at that level before moving up.
Frequently asked questions
Which via ferrata is best for a first trip?
It depends on your location, preparation and support. Colodri offers a short approach to consider for a guided first trip. Marguerettaz needs care with protected downclimbing; Fanes requires hiking fitness and confidence on wet passages. No route suits everyone.
How much time should I allow for an easy via ferrata?
Count the whole outing, not just the protected climb. These options range from an estimated hour and a half at Morgex to about four hours for Picasass. These are reference times, not targets. Add a margin for instruction, breaks and queues.
Can a beginner start on a PD route?
The PD label alone is not enough. Length, exposure, cruxes and descent must match the group. Ask a mountain guide to choose your first route and teach the necessary techniques rather than choosing by grade alone.
Are these routes open right now?
This selection is not a live opening bulletin. Sources were consulted on the stated date, but closures, maintenance, weather and conditions can change. Read the full route description and confirm conditions with local operators before departure.
How this selection was compiled
By Sferrati. This selection compares catalogue descriptions with the local tourism sources linked in each entry, consulted on 6 September 2026. We considered overall duration, access, exposure and descent, separating accompanied first trips from subsequent progression. This is a documentary review, not a field inspection or opening certificate.
Figures refer to the named sources. Differences in itinerary or grading are stated explicitly. Photos and coordinates come from Sferrati records. Confirm conditions with local organisations or operators before departure.
CAI · Recommendations on correct via ferrata set use (Italian)
