Ferrata Benini

Overview

The Benini Via Ferrata forms the northernmost section of the vast Bocchette system in the Brenta Group, connecting Passo Grostè to Bocca di Tucket, which is also the terminus of the Ferrata delle Bocchette Alte. This is a high-altitude route of considerable length, characterized by the typical wave-like profile of these trails, with continuous ups and downs along spectacular ledges and dizzying views over the Dolomites. The technical difficulty is moderate, and the route can be traveled in either direction. The progression is mostly horizontal but discontinuous, alternating between gentle ascents, descents, and long traverses, offering an experience that demands endurance and exposure more than pure vertical climbing.

Approach

The logical access from the Passo Grostè side is the top station of the Campo Carlo Magno cable car, near the Rifugio Stoppani. From here, the CAI 305 trail markers climb with moderate gradient toward the northeast, skirting the east face of Cima Grostè along a scree and rocky path. Ignoring the turnoff for the normal route to the summit, you reach the start of the via ferrata in about an hour. As an alternative to the cable car, the hike up from Campo Carlo Magno along trail 301 takes about two hours for 600 meters of elevation gain, on a steep and rocky track that already serves as a good warm-up.

Via Ferrata

From the start, a short equipped section overcomes an exposed ridge, then leads onto a wide, non-equipped ledge heading toward Bocca dei Camosci. The route initially develops on solid, compact rock, typical of the Brenta Dolomites. After a descending section with a cable, you enter a long ascending ledge that runs beneath the south face of Cima Falkner. This sector, at first narrow and constrained, gradually widens but maintains continuous exposure over the void of the Val delle Seghe; in some spots you must duck down to pass under rock overhangs (chimneys). The pace is fluid, and the route allows for swift progression, all within a majestic and airy environment.

After ignoring the turnoff for the normal route to Cima Falkner, the ledge swings south, offering magnificent views of the Campanile di Vallesinella and the Glacier of Cima Brenta. What follows is a sequence of short, equipped downclimbing sections, considered the most technical and exposed of the entire route. Here the character of the via ferrata changes: you tackle a few vertical descents where the rock becomes more articulated and the exposure more pronounced. After losing about a hundred meters of elevation, you continue along a variable ledge that skirts the base of the Campanile di Vallesinella, a closed-in and evocative environment.

Crossing a scree gully and climbing back up over some fixed metal aids, you reach Bocca Alta di Vallesinella (2897 m), a rocky pass that marks the transition from the eastern to the western side of the group. From here, a descent over a non-steep snowfield-which can be icy-leads to the junction for the Sentiero Dallagiacoma, a faster variant to Rifugio Tucket. Ignoring this turnoff, you tackle the final section, rounding the west face of Cima Sella on mid-height ledges. This last sector is the most demanding in terms of continuity and route-finding, with the trail winding over rock often polished by ice.

Once you catch sight of Bocca di Tucket from above, you descend through an adrenaline-filled section that includes five metal ladders in descent and narrow connecting ledges, until you reach the rocky notch of the pass (2647 m). The ladders, often suspended over the void, bring the route to a spectacular conclusion. The via ferrata takes about 3 hours from the start, for a total of 4 hours from the cable car top station. The overall pace is dictated more by the length and continuous exposure than by pure technical difficulty.

Descent

From Bocca di Tucket, the descent follows the Tucket Glacier toward Rifugio Tucket (2272 m). This section of about 45 minutes, over snowy or icy terrain, can be treacherous depending on conditions; if in doubt, the use of crampons and an ice axe is strongly recommended. After leaving the snowfield by following two stone cairns on the right, you take the trail that, ignoring turnoffs for the Sentiero Sosat and the Dallagiacoma, leads to the refuge. For the return to Passo Grostè, follow the CAI 316 trail northward for an additional hour and a half of walking on a varied path that skirts the slopes of Monte Spinale.

Useful Notes

The Benini Via Ferrata develops mainly on airy ledges, with technical difficulties concentrated in a few vertical sections near the Campanile di Vallesinella and in the final descent to Bocca di Tucket. One aspect not to be underestimated is the frequent fog in this part of the Brenta, which can make navigation critical in the section around Cima Sella, where the route relies primarily on stone cairns. This itinerary completes the Alta Via delle Bocchette, a system that can be traveled over multiple days by staying in mountain huts. For navigation, a detailed map of the Brenta Group is essential. The experience is highly panoramic and expansive, suited to those seeking a long high-altitude route rather than a short, intense climb.