Ferrata Bocchette Centrali

Overview

The Ferrata delle Bocchette Centrali is a historic route and a cornerstone of the international via ferrata scene. It unfolds through a severe, breathtakingly beautiful alpine environment, offering a complete high-altitude experience. While extreme technical difficulties are absent, this is balanced by constant exposure and an airy setting that demands solid physical and mental preparation, along with a respectful approach.

Approach

Access to the via ferrata is primarily from two sides, offering different logistical choices in terms of effort and scenery.

The approach from Madonna di Campiglio starts at the parking lot of Rifugio Vallesinella (1513 m). Take trail CAI 317, which climbs through the forest to Rifugio Casinei in about 45 minutes. To reach Rifugio Brentei (2182 m), you can either take the direct trail CAI 318 (about 1 hour 30 minutes) or the more challenging Sentiero Attrezzato Violi (CAI 391), which takes about 2 hours 15 minutes and offers a taste of rock climbing. From Brentei, trail CAI 318 ascends towards the Bocche di Brenta (2552 m), the start of the via ferrata. The total approach time from Vallesinella is about 3 hours 15 minutes (4 hours via the Sentiero Violi).

The alternative from the Molveno side begins near Baita Ciclamino. Follow CAI 319 to Rifugio Croz dell'Altissimo (1430 m, 40 minutes), then CAI 340 towards Rifugio Selvata (1630 m). Continuing on CAI 319, you climb to Rifugio Tosa (2439 m) and finally to Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m), reachable in about 4 hours 30 minutes total. From here, a 30-minute climb leads to the Bocche di Brenta and the start of the equipped route.

Via Ferrata

The via ferrata begins with three consecutive metal ladders, each about ten meters high-a vertical introduction that immediately immerses you in the cliffside environment. Once past these, you find yourself on a broad ledge that bends left, offering the first views but requiring caution for rock overhangs. After rounding a corner and climbing a few slabs, you are fully absorbed into a panorama dominated by the Campanile Alto and the Cima degli Sfulmini.

The route continues along a long ledge carved into the rock, a horizontal corridor that skirts the western base of the Cima di Brenta Alta. The rhythm shifts abruptly with a steeper rock section, equipped with stirrups and another metal ladder. In this sector, even late in the season, you may encounter a snowy gully. Crossing this gully demands maximum caution; for less experienced hikers, a rope for belaying can be useful. Past this passage, you approach the saddle between Cima di Brenta Alta and the Campanil Basso. This first section, dedicated to Otto Gottstein and Arturo Castelli, ends at the Bocchetta del Campanil Basso (2620 m), reached about 45 minutes from the start.

The route continues on the section dedicated to Carla Benini and Figari, alternating short climbs on rock steps with ledge traverses. The famous "ferro di cavallo" (horseshoe) stands out-a recess in the mountain with strong lateral exposure, giving a feeling of suspension over the void. A short descent over rock steps and a ladder leads to a wide ledge heading towards the Bocca degli Armi. After a short but airy ridge, a series of long metal ladders leads to a snowfield. The conditions of this north-facing snowfield vary annually and it is often icy; the use of crampons and an ice axe is strongly recommended to cross it safely. Descending the snowfield to the right, you finally reach Rifugio Alimonta (2580 m). The total time for the via ferrata is about 2 hours 45 minutes-a sequence of technical passages, airy sections, and brief pauses on panoramic ledges.

Descent

From the Bocca d'Armi and Rifugio Alimonta, the main return options branch off.

For those who came up from Madonna di Campiglio, the descent from Rifugio Alimonta follows trail CAI 323 down to Rifugio Brentei. From here, retrace the approach trail past Rifugio Casinei to descend to the parking lot at Rifugio Vallesinella. This descent takes about 3 hours 45 minutes, bringing the total hike to about 9 hours 45 minutes.

For those who started from Molveno, an interesting alternative is to descend from the Bocca d'Armi via the Ferrata Spellini, then join trail CAI 303 with the Sentiero Attrezzato Orsi (about 1 hour 30 minutes). Keeping right at the junction, descend to Rifugio Tosa and retrace the approach trail, passing Rifugio Selvata back to Baita Ciclamino. This option takes about 3 hours 45 minutes of descent, for a total of about 11 hours of activity.

Useful Notes

This itinerary, like many in the Gruppo di Brenta, includes sections on permanent snowfields or glaciers. Although the crossing is not technically difficult, it should never be underestimated: it is essential to be equipped with crampons and an ice axe. Another risk, present at various times of the year, is wet or icy rock, even on non-equipped sections. In these situations, as on all exposed passages, a steady foot and maximum caution are indispensable.

For proper planning, the use of a detailed map of the Gruppo di Brenta is recommended. Given the overall length and elevation gain, an excellent logistical solution is to plan an overnight stay at one of the high-altitude refuges. This would allow, for example, combining the Bocchette Centrali with the equally famous Bocchette Alte in a multi-day itinerary, thoroughly exploring the possibilities offered by the Dolomiti di Brenta.