Ferrata Corna delle Capre

Overview

Updated technical report on the Corna delle Capre Via Ferrata, a vertical route on the eastern flank of Monte Guglielmo in the province of Brescia. The route unfolds across a compact limestone face, offering continuous, sustained progression with numerous sections of climbing on excellent rock. The relatively short approach and moderate elevation make it an ideal choice for the shoulder seasons or milder winter days, and it is often combined in a traverse with the nearby Corno del Bene Via Ferrata.

Approach

The starting point is near Croce di Marona, on the Brescian side. From Marona, head east toward Zone. Once you reach a camper parking area with the first signs, you can park here, but this would mean a roughly one-hour walk-in. Instead, continue for about 2.5 km along a mixed road (asphalt and rough dirt track) to a series of switchbacks where you can leave the car. The access to the approach trail begins at the seventh switchback, marked by a sign; an alternative is to park near the third switchback.

Via Ferrata

From the dirt road, the silhouette of Corna delle Capre is clearly visible high above. Continue to a junction with a brown sign for the via ferrata, turning left. Following the trail and CAI markers, you soon reach the obvious start of the Corna delle Capre Via Ferrata, near a white ruin, having kept right at the only junction encountered (about 20 minutes from the car).

Once geared up, the first few meters on easy rock ledges lead to the white starting sign. The climbing becomes immediately very vertical, aided by an abundance of metal stirrups. A short traverse to the right precedes a new steep climb that bends slightly left to a 5-6 meter dihedral. The rock, limestone and compact, proves excellent and climbable from the start, but the ascent would be extremely challenging without the support of the stirrups.

The route maintains a brisk pace, alternating vertical sections with short traverses that break up the continuity. Continue up the vertical face, using both natural holds and metal handles, before a horizontal traverse to the right offers a moment of respite. The cable resumes with a traverse across yellowish rock to the right, leading under a blackish roof. This is bypassed on the left with an exposed traverse on polished rock that goes around an edge, in a very beautiful and characteristic passage. Beyond the edge, the rock offers better holds and you resume climbing vertically using a series of useful handles.

Emerging from this more demanding section, you encounter slabby, stepped rock ledges, pleasant to climb using natural formations. After a brief detour to the left, the vertical ascent continues without particular difficulty on limestone rich in natural holds. The face then takes the form of an easy rocky gully, where the cable partly serves as a simple handrail. After overcoming a few easy steps, you bend right, crossing the gully to move onto its right side.

A horizontal traverse to the right precedes a new decisive vertical ascent up a nice little face, helped by some stirrups but finding good holds especially on the right side. You finish this face under a short dihedral on blackish rock, which you climb to find yourself under a bulge. An athletic move, aided by stirrups, allows you to overcome it. The ascent of the dihedral, very enjoyable, continues before bending right. You then tackle a decidedly exposed and very beautiful face, using the ever-present metal stirrups where needed.

The character of the route is predominantly vertical and physical, with constant exposure that rewards with wide panoramas. The pace of climbing remains sustained but never excessively difficult, with continuity in difficulty and few athletic sections. Ascending, you go around an edge on the right before a series of well-holded rocky steps lead into an area rich in vegetation. After a connecting section, you enter the final stretch.

Climb a short polished slab, then follow a rocky ramp to the right which, after a few short steps, leads to another connecting section with the cable acting as a handrail. A first athletic move to overcome a bulge precedes a climb that bends right. The final meters on easy ledges finally lead to a grassy trail that quickly brings you to the end of the equipment of the Corna delle Capre Via Ferrata, with the town of Zone clearly visible below (about 1 hour from the start, 1 hour and 30 minutes total from the car).

Descent

From the grassy summit, follow the stone cairns downhill until you encounter equipped sections that allow you to lose elevation quickly. You reach a nice section of equipped downclimbing. Continue then following the steep track through the woods and sporadic red/pink markings, until you intercept a CAI trail. For the direct return to the car, keep left, reaching after a short downhill section with a cable the starting point and from there, retracing your steps, the car (about 45 minutes from the end of the via ferrata, for a total of about 2 hours and 30 minutes).

Useful Notes

For those who want to combine the Corna delle Capre Via Ferrata with the one at Corno del Bene, there are two options. The first: descend as described and, once on the CAI trail, keep right (instead of left) following the signs for Monte Guglielmo. The second: once the route is finished, instead of descending to the left following the steel cable, keep right on an unmarked track that soon joins trail 232, continuing northeast. Staying on 232, you reach a junction with trail 227, where you keep left following blue blazes to a sign indicating the Corno del Bene Via Ferrata. After its ascent, you can descend along the return trail and head back to the car using trail 230 or 232.

For cartography, the 4Land map of Lake Iseo is recommended. The Lake Iseo area offers numerous other interesting equipped routes.