Ferrata del Chiadenis

Overview

The Ferrata del Chiadenis forms a complete loop that combines the historic ascent route from the northeast side, known as the Ferrata di Guerra or delle Trincee, with a technical descent on the southwest side via the Ferrata CAI Portogruaro. This itinerary is rated difficult, offering an experience of great appeal not only for its climbing but also for its history, being deeply marked by the works of the Great War. The progression alternates between sections of climbing on compact rock and exposed passages along ledges and ridges, creating a continuous and demanding character.

Approach

Access to the route is from Provincial Road 22, between Cima Sappada and the Sorgenti del Piave (Sources of the Piave River). From Cima Sappada, take the narrow paved road for the Sorgenti del Piave, which runs for about 8 km to the Rifugio Sorgenti del Piave. A large roadside parking area (around 1800 m), located just before the refuge, serves as the starting point.

To reach the start of the Ferrata del Chiadenis, you must ascend to the Passo del Cacciatore on the northeastern side. A loop approach is recommended, allowing for a varied return via the Rifugio Calvi. From the parking area, descend the asphalt for about a hundred meters to the sign for trail CAI 173, which branches off to the east with a clear track. The trail cuts decisively across the meadows on the southern slope of the Chiadenis, then gradually curves north, ascending a rocky gully. Maintaining a steady gradient, the path makes a sharp left turn, leading in about 1 hour and 30 minutes to the Passo dei Cacciatori (2213 m), a site rich in military fortifications. Continuing left on a slight uphill traverse on the CAI 173, you reach a junction where you keep left uphill, leaving trail 173 which continues straight. Following the signs, you finally reach the start of the via ferrata at 2290 meters, after a total approach time of about 1 hour and 45 minutes.

An alternative approach involves climbing directly to the Rifugio Calvi (as for the return) and from there, via the Passo Sesis, taking the right-hand trail 173 to the junction for the ferrata start, in about 1 hour and 30 minutes. This option has the disadvantage of making the route to the refuge common to both the outward and return journeys.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route begins with a diagonal ramp that skirts a rocky buttress. The climb develops on solid, well-structured rock, allowing for smooth progression in climbing. The morphology changes as you bend left along another diagonal ramp, where you overcome a characteristic wedged boulder that requires climbing over. A short but exposed descending traverse leads to the base of the main climbing system, consisting of a sequence of chimneys and gullies. Watch out for falling rocks in these sections, to avoid endangering any hikers below.

The first gully features rock rich in holds, allowing for fluid climbing without needing to pull on the cable. The pace becomes more technical as the gully narrows and the rock becomes smoother, requiring greater precision in finding footholds and, in some spots, using the rope to aid progress. The gully evolves into a chimney with close walls, which opens onto a more stepped section. In this passage, overly bulky backpacks can cause difficulties.

Exiting the chimney, you cross a short, unstable gravelly section. Continue climbing left, overcoming some wedged boulders and short steps on smooth rock, to the base of a very beautiful chimney that requires agility. The fixed cable is positioned on the right, while the most useful holds are on the opposite side, demanding stemming movements. At the top, the cable continues right toward a small ledge. Then tackle a few rocky steps to the left to access the third chimney, equipped with some useful steps for hands and feet.

Once the chimney is finished, the route eases onto a long, protected ledge section that is markedly exposed, dotted with remains and evidence of the Great War, such as trenches and cave shelters. You reach a descent passage enclosed in a short, well-holded chimney, followed by a war shelter. Continuing on the level, you pass through a narrow gap between the wall and a rock spur, another critical point for bulky backpacks.

2021 Variant: near the shelter, a sign indicates a new equipped climb for a "Cima 2.454 m for experts." You ascend with progressively steeper climbing, overcoming a couple of demanding chimneys interspersed with connecting sections rich in wartime relics, until reaching the summit in 10-15 minutes. The return is by the same route. This variant, if taken, adds about 30 minutes to the excursion and presents difficulties greater than the rest of the itinerary.

You then arrive at an airy but well-stepped arête, which introduces the last challenging passage of the ascent: a narrow dihedral with the cable on the right and well-placed steps on the left. The rock is very polished, making it necessary to use holds on both sides. Exiting the dihedral, the final passages lead to the summit register and the summit cross of Chiadenis at 2459 meters. The climbing time from the ferrata start is about 1 hour and 30 minutes, for a total of 3 hours and 15 minutes from the parking area.

The description continues with the equipped descent section along the Ferrata CAI Portogruaro. From the summit, follow the ridge south, immediately tackling the descent of a wall poor in holds, with the Rifugio Calvi clearly visible below. Then traverse an exposed, unprotected ridge section before finding the fixed equipment again. Descend more vertically on a fairly steep wall, where the cable offers good security. The descent continues diagonally left and then vertically to a ledge.

The most challenging passage of the descent is the descent of a 20-25 meter wall on a polished slab, equipped with a cable and some steps, to be tackled mainly by friction. The slab ends inside a dihedral, after which you descend another smooth wall to reach an exposed grassy ledge. This leads to the end of the equipment on the saddle above the Rifugio Calvi (2209 m). The time from the summit is about 1 hour and 30 minutes, for a total of 4 hours and 45 minutes from the start of the excursion.

Descent

From the saddle, a clear trail descends in about 15 minutes to the Rifugio Calvi (2167 m). From here, for the return to the parking area, you can follow the path that becomes a dirt road to the paved road (45 minutes from the refuge), or take the Sentiero Attrezzato delle Marmotte (Marmot's Equipped Trail), which rejoins just before the asphalt. Once on the paved road, keep left descending and quickly reach the parking area. The total time from the end of the ferrata is about 1 hour and 15 minutes, for a total excursion of about 6 hours.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata del Chiadenis is a very interesting and at times difficult itinerary, set in a stunning environment and generally uncrowded. The ascent route, which develops on limestone rock, features two or three technically and physically demanding passages, while the descent includes a couple of sections requiring particular attention, plus the exposure of the unprotected ridge section. The route is difficult but rewarding, dotted with numerous testimonies of the Great War (tunnels, trenches, shelters). It is essential to pay maximum attention to falling rocks along the chimneys of the ascent section, especially if other hikers are present.

The area, on the border between Veneto and Friuli, offers the possibility of combining this via ferrata with the nearby Ferrata Sartor al Monte Peralba, possibly overnighting at the Rifugio Calvi.