Ferrata del Procinto

Overview

Monte Procinto is an imposing limestone monolith, a geometric tower that erosion has isolated from the ancient plateau. Its vertical walls, roughly 150 meters high, form an almost continuous perimeter. Since 1898, the Ferrata Aristide Bruni - the oldest via ferrata in Italy - has allowed climbers to overcome these ramparts, reaching the wooded summit plateau in about 40 minutes of climbing. It is a short but intense route, whose difficulty lies primarily in the pronounced exposure that characterizes every meter of the climb.

Approach

The starting point is the Rifugio Alto Matanna, reachable from Lucca by taking the SS 12 toward the Garfagnana, then turning off for Diecimo and Pescaglia. After passing the village of Pascoso, follow signs for the refuge along a narrow but well-maintained paved road. From the parking area, the route begins behind the refuge, taking trail CAI 5 to the right heading north. Cross the basin of the Collare di Mattana, then descend along the southern slope of Monte Nona: from here, the unmistakable silhouette of Monte Procinto appears in the distance, dominating the landscape. Continuing through the woods, you reach a junction: leave CAI 5, which descends to the Rifugio Forte dei Marmi, and take a less distinct track to the right, marked for Procinto. After a small wooden bridge, follow a narrow natural ledge that runs along the base of the tower. Keeping to the left, after a few minutes you must carefully spot, on the right and without obvious signage, the turnoff that leads to the commemorative plaques and the start of the via ferrata. The approach takes about an hour from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

The ascent begins immediately with a vertical metal ladder equipped with a cable and chain. Continue climbing up a slab of solid limestone into which numerous artificial steps have been carved, in a section that is already highly exposed. Progress is aided by several metal handholds fixed to the rock. The environment is strikingly vertical: the wall rises in height with few ledges, offering an airy experience from the very start. Pay attention to some ropes and chains that may not be perfectly taut, which can create an annoying unbalancing effect. After passing a comfortable small terrace, you tackle a section where finding footholds requires care. The climb continues using more steps, traverses a diagonal ledge, and with the final minutes inside a stepped forest, you finally reach the summit cross. The via ferrata proper takes about forty minutes, bringing the total time from the start to one hour and forty minutes. The pace is continuous and sustained, with no real rest sections, in a succession of vertical pitches and short oblique traverses on ledges.

Descent

The descent follows the same route as the ascent, requiring maximum attention and respect for any climbers coming up. Descending on this technical and vertical itinerary demands concentration, as the view of footholds is less immediate. Once back at the base of Monte Procinto, retrace the approach trail in reverse until you reconnect with CAI 5. Climb back up, crossing the Collare di Mattana again, then descend to the parking area. The descent from the summit to the refuge takes about one hour and twenty minutes, bringing the total duration of the excursion to approximately three hours.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata del Monte Procinto is a short excursion, doable for most of the year. Its main characteristic is being a route that ascends and descends on the same path, which requires caution due to the possible presence of other hikers in both directions. While it does not present extreme technical difficulties, it is distinguished by very strong exposure, making it unsuitable for beginners or those who suffer from vertigo. For more experienced hikers, it is possible to combine this ascent with the nearby Ferrata Salvatori, extending the itinerary by at least three hours. After completing the ascent and descent of Procinto, at the junction with CAI 5, keep right to follow trail 121, skirting the base of the mountain toward the Foce di Petrosciana and Monte Forato, where the second via ferrata begins.