Ferrata della Corna Pedezzina

Overview

The Ferrata alla Corna Pedezzina is a recently installed route that climbs the namesake peak in the Val Brembana, in the province of Bergamo, near San Pellegrino Terme. Classified as easy, it features a single more challenging section, but is richly equipped with handholds. The simple access, limited elevation gain, and low altitude make it a suitable objective even for clear winter days. Caution is needed in some sections due to the loose, detrital ground, which can be unstable.

The itinerary unfolds mainly on a compact rock structure, typical of the local limestone, weaving across short ridges and ledges. It offers a rhythmic experience, with sequences of protected climbing alternating with walking on more sloping terrain, maintaining a predominantly scenic and accessible character.

Approach

The route begins from the hamlet of Santa Croce, in the municipality of San Pellegrino Terme. Arriving in San Pellegrino along the Val Brembana, turn right following signs for Dossena and Antea, then turn right again towards Santa Croce. Parking is available on site, for example in the large square near the church.

From the village, the two peaks are clearly visible: Corna Maria on the left and Corna Pedezzina on the right. Follow the signs to take the CAI 561 trail, which is obvious and heads directly towards Corna Maria. At the junction of the loop, continue straight in the direction of Monte Rabbioso. Some waymarks confirm the direction for the via ferrata. Continue climbing to a saddle, where you'll find a green hunting hut. This is the suitable spot to put on your via ferrata gear. Up to here, the approach is shared with the nearby Ferrata alla Corna Maria. From the saddle, for the Ferrata Pedezzina, follow the signs indicating to keep right.

You then follow a dirt track that leads to the start. It is essential to respect the indicated counterclockwise direction of travel: keep right on the ascent and return via the trail on the left, avoiding the route in reverse. A final steep stretch leads to the actual start, reachable in about 30 minutes from the parking lot.

The approach takes place on a wooded slope, with moderate inclines that progressively prepare you for the rocky environment. The morphology is characterized by a continuous but not strenuous approach, leading without significant ups and downs to the base of the structure.

Via Ferrata

The itinerary begins by climbing a short dirty gully for a few meters, until you encounter the rock and the first metal handholds. Continue leftwards along a rocky gully equipped with handholds and rungs. Where the wall becomes more vertical, you face a single, slightly overhanging passage: tackle it decisively, moving leftwards to a comfortable small ledge. After rounding the corner to the left, climb a short overhanging step, made easy by the presence of numerous rungs and handholds.

The climb continues alternating well-protected steps and terraced rock with dirty ledges, until reaching a small ridge. Follow the ridge staying on the left side, overcoming some climbable steps thanks to the abundant natural holds in the rock. Then climb, still on the left, a nice dihedral about 4 meters high. After a short traverse to the right, you exit onto the summit meadows and, via a short equipped trail, reach the summit cross of Corna Pedezzina (about 960 meters). The climbing time from the start is about 20 minutes, for a total of about 1 hour from the car.

The pace is lively and continuous, with short vertical sequences interspersed with pauses on ledges, offering a balance between technical effort and recovery. The exposure is generally moderate, concentrated in a few key points where the compact, fissured rock structure provides pleasant and scenic climbing.

Attention: the via ferrata does not end at the summit, as the initial return still involves equipped sections with downclimbing passages. From the cross, the steel cable starts, which in the last meters of the climb can be seen running parallel to the right. Follow it on a descending traverse to a more vertical section near a pillar. Continue the descent on more sloping slopes, but requiring attention due to the not entirely stable ground. You then reach a small vertical wall that is very well-equipped but exposed. After downclimbing this, move left to descend a rather articulated dirty gully. Following the track, the Ferrata alla Corna Pedezzina concludes in about 40 minutes from the start, for a total of about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

The equipped descent introduces a more technical and varied character, with changes of direction and short downclimbing sections on solid rock. The environment becomes more articulated, with passages on ledges and in a detrital gully that require attention to the stability of the ground.

Descent

Back at the saddle with the green hut, you have two options: return to Santa Croce via the approach trail (about 30 minutes, for a total of about 1 hour and 45 minutes from the car), or tackle the nearby and more challenging Ferrata alla Corna Maria, a highly recommended option to create a complete loop.

Useful Notes

This via ferrata is ideal to combine with the nearby Ferrata alla Corna Maria (or Ferrata del Nido di Santa Croce), forming a more complete and satisfying loop itinerary. Maximum caution is recommended regarding the ground, which can be slippery in some sections, especially after periods of rain. The itinerary was opened to the public in the spring of 2023. The Val Brembana and the nearby Alpi Orobie offer numerous other possibilities for via ferrata enthusiasts.

The route as a whole is characterized by its accessibility and brevity, while still offering a good variety of technical situations. The rock, generally good, and the recent equipment guarantee safety, while the open, sunny environment provides wide panoramas of the middle valley, giving the experience a pleasant exploratory character even in the cold season.