Ferrata Gadotti al Sass Aut

Overview

The Ferrata Gadotti traces a long alpine route along the ridge that separates Sass delle Dodici from Punta Vallaccia, in the wildest sector of Val San Nicolò, a tributary of the Val di Fassa. The technical difficulty is generally considered moderate, but the route's demanding character is defined by its considerable length and high total elevation gain. The terrain crossed is severe and isolated alpine in nature, far from the more frequented travel corridors: this is therefore an ascent reserved for experienced hikers in excellent physical condition, to be planned exclusively when stable and favorable weather conditions are in place.

Approach

The route begins at the Pensione Soldanella in Val San Nicolò, accessible from Pozza di Fassa. From the pension, cross the road and, just before the bridge, take a wide trail that climbs the right orographic side of the valley. Follow the trail 635, which with sustained steepness enters the forest and then opens into the broad basin of the Vallaccia, a natural amphitheater dominated by the imposing profile of Punta Vallaccia. From this point the via ferrata ideally begins, although the official start marker is located further ahead. The estimated time for this approach section is about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

The initial environment is typically Dolomitic, with a trail that develops on a wooded and scree-covered slope, gradually preparing you for the more open and rocky terrain of the basin.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route begins with a first section that uses metal rungs and a diagonal ramp of modest difficulty, but potentially treacherous if the rock is wet. After overcoming a rocky spur, you reach the Bivacco Zeni at 2100 meters (about 15 minutes from the start; total 1h45'). At the bivouac there is a fork: take the right to enter the true Ferrata Gadotti, where shortly after you encounter the commemorative plaque dedicated to Franco Gadotti.

The pace now becomes more continuous and alpine. The route proceeds along an inclined ledge, with the cable fixed to the left, offering moderate exposure but no significant technical passages, heading toward Sass delle Dodici. The path alternates between walking sections on ledges and short rocky steps to be climbed or descended, as well as simple traverses. Later, the route turns to climb mid-slope toward Cima Dodici; at the beginning of the season you may encounter a residual snowfield, which should be approached with caution.

You thus reach a saddle at 2390 meters (1h30' from the start; total 3h). From this pass, a short detour to the right (10 minutes) leads to Cima Dodici (2443 m), a summit that offers an exceptional panorama of the Val di Fassa and the chains of Catinaccio, Sassolungo, and Sassopiatto.

From the saddle, the route turns south toward Sas Aut. Ignoring the detour for trail CAI 630, you ascend a well-equipped rocky gully with metal rungs, which leads to the broad summit meadows of Sas Aut (2551 m) (45 minutes from the saddle; total 3h45').

The character of the via ferrata changes again. From the meadows you descend south to a scree-filled gully that, despite the presence of protections, requires attention and a very sure foot due to the unstable ground. Keeping to the left side, you arrive at the most distinctive passage of the entire route: the Bus del Diaol, a narrow fissure in the rock equipped with rungs, to be descended in a slight overhang.

After exiting this key passage, you continue south with constant ups and downs on scree terrain to Forcella di Baranchie (2550 m), then turn left (east) and conquer the summit of Punta Vallaccia (2637 m), the terminal point of the Ferrata Gadotti (1h30' from Sas Aut; 4h from the start; total 5h15').

The experience is highly panoramic and physically demanding, with a discontinuous rhythm dictated by the alternation of equipped sections on solid rock, walking on scree, and ridge passages.

Descent

From the summit of Punta Vallaccia, descend east to a junction. Here you can opt for a short detour to the right to visit the characteristic Rifugio Vallaccia (2275 m), before reaching Forcella Vallaccia. From this pass, take trail CAI 615 descending, which leads back to Bivacco Zeni and, from there, along the ascent route, to the starting point. The descent time from Punta Vallaccia is about 2 hours and 30 minutes, for a total of approximately 7 hours and 45 minutes from the start of the approach.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Gadotti is formally classified as easy, but it presents some points of localized difficulty that demand particular concentration: the initial section after Bivacco Zeni, the unstable gully below Sas Aut, and, most prominently, the Bus del Diaol. The hike is very long and, despite the geographical proximity to tourist areas, is little-traveled and has a wild atmosphere. Navigation in the sector between the Bivouac and Forcella Vallaccia can become problematic in bad weather, making it absolutely essential to tackle the route only with stable weather and excellent visibility.