Ferrata Julia al Canin

Overview

The Ferrata Julia is a demanding alpine route on the Italian side of Monte Canin. The climb starts from the top station of the Sella Nevea cable car, with an approach that includes ascending the Canin Glacier. For more experienced mountaineers, it's possible to complete a highly scenic loop that also crosses into Slovenian territory, significantly extending both the duration and character of the outing.

Approach

The route begins at the cable car's upper station, reachable from Sella Nevea (UD). From Chiusaforte, follow signs for about 20 km. Once at the top station, near the Rifugio Gilberti Soravito (1850 m), take trail 632 to its right. From here, you can already make out, to the left of the ridge, the Sella Prevala - a pass used for one of the return options - and the unmistakable profile of Monte Forato.

Pass the first junction (trail 636 to the left), keeping right as you ascend toward Sella Bila Pec, where you'll see the remains of a military barracks. Continuing as marked, after about 45 minutes you reach another junction: the CAI trail 632 goes straight toward Sella Grubia, while you turn left following red waymarks toward the Canin Glacier. The path, wide and traversing the slope, crosses a moraine ridge (watch for hollows in the ground) and reaches the glacier's edge.

The glacier's condition varies. Although crampons aren't always necessary on the initial section, the slope steepens progressively as you near the start of the via ferrata, and it's strongly recommended to have them with you. The ascent follows the central part of the snowy couloir. Markings are sparse here: the goal is to climb straight up toward the high notch from which the steel cables descend. Caution: the red waymarks to the left indicate the Sentiero delle Cenge, a high-difficulty return variant. Instead, keep right to spot the cables marking the start of the Ferrata Julia at 2350 m, reached about 1 hour and 45 minutes from the top cable car station.

Via Ferrata

The start of the Ferrata Julia may require crossing a crevasse near the wall, depending on the glacier's extent. You begin by climbing diagonally up a wall polished smooth by millennia of glacial action. After the first few meters on the cable, move to the right. This initial section can be physically demanding due to the slick rock, which sometimes requires upper-body strength, aided by a few fixed pegs. You then continue vertically with increasing exposure, but the rock becomes more stepped and climbable. This first section was not part of the original route.

A short traverse to the right leads onto easier ground until you reach a small plaque identifying the Via Julia. The climb continues over rocky ledges; then, shifting left, you enter a very pleasant little couloir where it's best to climb with legs spread wide. Continue straight up over rock steps and easy ledges until you reach a vertical wall equipped with large metal stirrups. After overcoming this, ascend another couloir. Watch out for loose debris in this section, to avoid knocking stones down on any climbers below.

The route continues with more vertical sections, ledges, and a couple of traverses, until you climb a final couloir and gain the ridge. Here the equipped section ends at about 2530 m, with the glacier visible 200 meters below. The climbing time from the start is about 45 minutes. On the ridge, marked by the state border, keep right following red waymarks along a moderately difficult trail, at times a little exposed, which in about 15 minutes leads to the summit of Monte Canin (2587 m), recognizable by a broken wooden cross. Total time from the top cable car station is about 2 hours and 45 minutes.

Descent

From the summit, retrace your steps to the junction with the end of the via ferrata. From here, you have three options:

1. Sentiero delle Cenge (most challenging option): requires experience and a head for heights. From the junction, continue along the ridge following red waymarks to a sign with a track that descends to the left. This trail, better suited for ascent, winds along narrow, exposed ledges with a few short equipped sections. The key passage involves spreading your legs to cross a short, exposed couloir. The connections between ledges require downclimbing on rock steps. The markings are imperfect for descending and demand good route-finding skills. Once back on the glacier (about 1h 45' from the summit), return to the cable car via the approach trail (about 1h 15' more, for a total of around 6 hours).
2. Slovenian side (longer but less technical option): Follow the ridge connecting Canin to Sella Prevala, running just below it on Slovenian territory. Ignore any junctions that descend into the valley and stay on the traversing trail, passing near the distinctive Monte Forato, known for its rocky "window." This brings you to the top station of the Slovenian cable car, and then, continuing north, to Sella Prevala (2067 m) in about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the summit. From here, keeping left on trail 636, descend through the glacial valley to the bottom station of the Italian cable car in about 1 hour and 15 minutes (total around 6h 30').
3. Reverse route: Back down the Ferrata Julia and the approach trail.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Julia on Monte Canin is a very rewarding itinerary, combining Dolomite-like landscapes on the Slovenian side, glacial sections, and moraine hollows. The via ferrata is of moderate difficulty and, except for the first section, is well-climbable and free of major technical challenges. The return via the Sentiero delle Cenge, however, requires a steady step and the ability to downclimb Grade I and II passages in exposed positions, while the Slovenian side option is less difficult but longer. The ferrata, built between 1962 and 1963 by the Alpine troops of the Brigata Julia, has recently been completely restored. The route can be combined with other climbs in the area, such as the Ferrata Grasselli on Picco di Carnizza.