Ferrata Nasego

Overview

The Ferrata Nasego, set into the slopes of the Corna di Savallo in the province of Brescia, is a varied and highly rewarding route. It is divided into five distinct sections, offering a sampler of passages that range from vertical walls to airy traverses, ledges, and short crest sections. The overall difficulty is moderate, with a few points demanding greater technical and physical commitment, particularly in a couple of key passages. Exposure is generally manageable, but there are sequences of genuine void. The length is offset by numerous ledges and connecting sections that allow you to catch your breath and appreciate the surrounding landscape. Its relatively modest altitude makes it climbable for much of the year, making it an appealing objective even in the shoulder seasons.

The route unfolds over a composite terrain, alternating compact walls with more jagged sectors. The rock, limestone in nature, often shows signs of friability, influencing the choice of holds. The path winds mainly along well-defined ledges and short crests, offering a rhythmic progression between vertical and more horizontal stretches. The experience is marked by good technical variety, with moments of physical climbing alternating with more panoramic and recovery sequences.

Approach

The starting point is near the hamlet of Comero, above Lodrino. Driving along the provincial road after Casto, look for a rising branch road on the right, also signposted for the Rifugio Nasego, with the imposing Corna di Savallo already clearly visible. Take this paved road, which, after a fork (follow the signs for the refuge to the right) and passing a church, gradually narrows. After a couple of kilometers, it becomes a dirt track that is still drivable; ascend cautiously for any descending vehicles until you reach a large clearing with a shelter, usable for parking.

From here, follow the signs for the via ferrata, which veer to the right (east) with a slight incline. Shortly, you exit the woods and skirt the base of the wall. Continuing on the obvious trail, you reach the start of the fixed equipment in about 20 minutes, clearly visible on the left.

Via Ferrata

The route is divided into five sections, each distinct in character and difficulty.

First Section: The progression begins with a sloping stretch where the cable mainly serves as a balance reference. You then tackle a low-angle rock face, with the cable tracing a zigzag that you must step over in a couple of spots. The climb continues up a more vertical wall along a subtle ridge. Reaching a point where a plant offers a good foothold, you turn right into a short traverse and then diagonally left. You continue gaining altitude and exposure with alternating vertical moves. The final part of the wall becomes more slabby; climbing some rock steps to the left, you reach a ridge that gives access to a comfortable ledge. After the ledge and a short equipped trail, the fixed gear ends. Continue on a grassy track to reach the start of the second section.

This stretch sets the rhythm of the route well: a succession of short technical climbs interspersed with resting ledges. The environment is that of an initial, compact wall that gradually gives way to more articulated formations. The experience is easy to approach, with increasing but never excessive exposure.

Second Section: Descending along the trail, you arrive at a rocky gully. Here lies one of the most challenging passages of the entire via ferrata: a vertical wall of 8-10 meters with rungs, characterized by a short initial overhang. Next to it is a plant that on one hand offers support, but on the other must be climbed over in a maneuver that is not simple, especially for those of shorter stature. Once past the plant, the cable continues up a vertical, exposed, and demanding stretch. In the upper part, the wall becomes richer in natural holds, reducing the need for artificial rungs. It concludes with a series of easier rock steps.

This section represents the technical heart of the via ferrata. The morphology is that of a narrow gully enclosed by a compact wall, requiring powerful and precise progression. The pace is sustained and physical, with marked exposure in the central stretch. The character is decidedly vertical and challenging, rewarded by excellent rock quality in the upper part.

Third Section: Reaching the third section, you begin with a characteristic traverse: first diagonally right, then for a couple of meters in the opposite direction, also using some footholds. A short, easy equipped trail leads near a small gully. You cross it with a traverse under a slight roof, on a gentle incline, leading to a ridge. Carefully go around the ridge (watch out for the roof above your head), then climb a few easy rock steps, where you can always climb while paying maximum attention to the friability of the rock.

This stretch offers a change of pace, becoming more horizontal and connecting. The development occurs on ledges and traverses, with rather airy lateral exposure. The rhythm is broken, with short technical sequences alternating with simpler moves. The character is mixed, with particular attention to rock quality, which here can be more friable.

Fourth Section: The section begins with a series of easy rock steps, then turns decisively left. Here awaits a slightly overhanging traverse, physical for the arms, where it's best not to linger. Once past the traverse, the cable continues vertically up a short rock fissure, then climbs some well-stepped rock steps in a more physical and exposed stretch. You reach a notch between two towers: take the left one, climb it, and pass to the opposite side. A narrow earthy ledge allows you to bypass a small gully, leading below a sloping earthy ramp. Ascend it, tackling a somewhat physical pull of a couple of meters on the counter-slope. After the first more difficult meters, an easy traverse goes around a ridge and leads to the end of the fourth section.

This section mixes verticality, airy traverses, and passages on mixed terrain. The morphology is varied: you go from compact rock to more eroded and earthy sectors. The rhythm is discontinuous, with peaks of physical effort followed by short recoveries. The character is technical and varied, requiring adaptation to different types of progression and a certain attention to balance on the traverses.

Fifth Section: Head towards an obvious rocky ledge that develops under a roof. Pay attention at the start, where you tackle a couple of vertical walls with few holds. Climb a couple of rock steps and follow a stretch of diagonal equipped ledge. A final vertical stretch finally leads to the summit of Corna di Savallo (1446 m), crowned by a large cross. The climbing time from the start of the via ferrata is about 3 hours (3 hours and 20 minutes total from the parking lot).

The final section develops along a nice ledge under a roof, then climbs directly up the summit ridge. The environment is open and panoramic, with the rock tending to be more compact. The pace is increasing, with a beautiful final vertical progression leading to the summit. The character is conclusive and rewarding, with excellent exposure and a 360-degree panorama as a reward.

Descent

From the summit cross, continue straight west following a very obvious trail. The trail descends with moderate slope until it intersects the escape route, and continuing the descent, you reach the Rifugio Nasego, run by volunteers. From the refuge, descend to the parking lot: you can choose the more direct and steep trail (to the left) or the gentler and longer one (to the right). The descent from the summit takes about 45 minutes, for a total hike of about 4 hours and 15 minutes.

Useful Notes

The rock is often friable: it is not advisable to fully rely on natural holds unless verified, and if you choose to climb, maximum caution is required. Apart from the wall with the plant and the overhanging traverse, there are no extremely difficult sections. The various sections offer many points to rest. Watch out for a couple of connecting trails, which can become slippery in damp conditions or after recent rain.

An important warning concerns the final stretch: if you continue along the ledge without noticing the equipment that climbs vertically, you will reach a saddle from which an equipped crest trail departs, traversing the other peaks of the Corna di Savallo. From there, you could still climb the east crest and reach the cross, but skipping the final via ferrata section.