Ferrata Rocca Clarì

Overview

The Perona-Saglia Via Ferrata on Rocca di Clarì is one of the most sought-after and spectacular routes in the upper Val di Susa. This is a physically and technically demanding itinerary, reserved for experienced, well-trained via ferrata climbers with a solid head for heights. The route winds along a pronounced, exposed ridge, offering an extraordinary variety of situations: vertical walls (both equipped and free-climbed), airy passages, exposed traverses, short downclimbs, and sequences on excellent-quality rock. The beauty of the setting and the quality of the progression make this a high-level experience.

The route develops on limestone rock, shaped into sharp crests and edges that ensure a predominantly vertical progression. The pace is discontinuous, alternating between technical climbs, short horizontal sections on ledges, and pauses on terraces; the exposure is constant and often very high. The character is decidedly technical and scenic, requiring active climbing and good management of the airy space.

Approach

The starting point for the via ferrata is the town of Claviere. There are two options for leaving your car and reaching the start. The first option is to park along the straight stretch between Claviere and Cesana Torinese, just before the entrance to a tunnel, in a large gravel parking area. The second option is to park near the Claviere campsite, close to the ticket office for the nearby "Sergio Bompard" Tibetan bridge. From both parking areas, the approach time is similar, about 15 minutes. From the first parking area, descend a well-marked trail toward the Gorge di San Gervasio. Once you reach the river, follow it upstream, cross over a bridge, and continue uphill on the trail to the right until you reach the start. From the second parking area, move a few meters to the left to take a trail that descends steeply toward the stream. After a short stretch, cross the watercourse and, on the opposite side, keep right as you climb. A few meters further on, an illustrated sign marks the start of the Ferrata Rocca di Clarì.

The approach environment is characterized by the wooded valley floor, with the stream flowing through a gorge. The terrain is steep, a prelude to the vertical challenge that lies ahead.

Via Ferrata

The route is divided into 15 distinct sectors, each with a characteristic name. The progression unfolds along a sequence of well-defined rock features: blades, pillars, ledges, and gullies that continually modulate the difficulty.

1. "La Lama" (The Blade): The start is on a vertical wall, aided by some stirrups and free-climbing passages. You enter a gully and, after a short horizontal traverse to the right, find yourself beneath a blade of rock. You ascend it using metal stirrups, then completely surmount it. You then proceed along a rocky crest, tackling beautiful climbable passages using the numerous natural holds. This first sector immediately introduces the technical and climbing-oriented character of the route, on compact rock.

1. "Far West Crossing": You go around a rock spur along a narrow ledge, pass to the left of a large boulder, and tackle a non-trivial traverse to the right that skirts a gorge. The passage requires balance and control due to the exposed position on a suspended ledge.

1. "Canale della Bomba" (Bomb Gully): A short traverse of a gully. A less technical transitional moment before resuming the vertical climb.

1. "Fungo Magico" (Magic Mushroom): You climb vertically, using stirrups, up a distinctive rock gendarme. You go around it, traverse across its top, and exit on the opposite side by climbing up sloping rock along a narrow, exposed blade. The morphology of the gendarme creates an airy and panoramic passage.

1. "Pian della Birra" (Beer Plain): A terrace ideal for a rest. You continue along a trail through the woods, partially equipped. A physical and psychological pause in a more sheltered environment.

1. "Via dei Camosci" (Chamois Trail): You ascend a loose but not difficult gully, overcoming a few easy equipped steps diagonally to the left. Once the equipment ends, a trail leads through a rocky gully. The pace becomes more continuous and less technical, but the terrain is unstable.

1. "Le Taniche" (The Crags): This is the most climbable section of the entire route. After the first meters to the right, you overcome a short rocky step and then continue to the left. The sequence proceeds with fine, often stepped passages, with excellent holds, up to a connecting section. The rock is excellent and allows for fluid, satisfying climbing on slabs and small dihedrals.

1. "Cengia Super Calcaire" (Super Limestone Ledge): You traverse a ledge to the left to enter a rocky gully. A horizontal, exposed passage that requires careful movement.

1. "Costone della Pineta" (Pine Forest Ridge): You tackle a series of small walls and easy steps, with a dihedral at the end, within a pine forest. The wooded environment lessens the exposure, but the progression remains active on rock.

1. "El Paso Doble": A more complex section, with a traverse to the left in a slight overhang, short but very exposed. You go around a rock protrusion and climb up on an equipped trail. The section continues with fine, sloping, and easily climbable passages. The traverse is the technical heart of the sector, with exposure that tests your nerve.

1. "Terrazzo del Generatore" (Generator Terrace): A terrace to catch your breath. The summit is now visible, but three challenging sections remain. The last pause before the grand finale.

1. "Gran Pilastro" (Great Pillar): You attack a massive pillar following the cable along its edge, moving from the right side to the left. In the upper part, you move to the center of the wall in extremely high exposure. This is arguably the most climbable and exposed section of the entire ascent, on magnificent rock, using natural holds and some stirrups. The progression on the pillar is physical and mental, with a view that stretches into the void.

1. "La Crepa" (The Crack): A vertical wall with a wide crack on the left edge. The wall is exposed and smooth, but the numerous metal stirrups significantly reduce the technical difficulty. A more artificial passage that uses the equipment to overcome a compact slab.

1. "La Scala Bionica" (The Bionic Ladder): The last spectacular passage. A steep, smooth vertical wall is ascended using a series of stirrups, in an airy and exposed but not difficult climb. The exit on the left side of the wall features a couple of slightly overhanging moves; concentration must remain at its peak. The progression is spectacular and decidedly vertical, with total exposure.

1. "La Terrazza del Cippo" (The Summit Marker Terrace): You gain the summit of Rocca di Clarì (2045 m) with the last few sloping meters, up to the Italian flag that marks the end of the via ferrata. The panorama of Chaberton, Claviere, and Cesana Torinese is magnificent. The climbing time from the start is about 3 hours (3h15' total from the car).

The experience is a continuous crescendo, with a pace modulated by technical sequences alternating with brief rests. The exposure is a constant that culminates in the final sectors.

Descent

From the summit, descend westward on a poorly marked but evident trail, passing over the top of Rocca di Clarì until you reach old military positions. Then take a dirt road descending toward La Coche (ski lift area). Continue the descent toward Claviere and, just before entering the town, turn right, crossing a ski lift to take the trail for the Gorge di San Gervasio. Once you reach the area below the Tibetan bridge, depending on your chosen parking spot:

1. Continue straight on the trail to the start of the via ferrata and return via the approach route.
2. Cross the stream and ascend the trail that leads back toward the campsite.

The descent time from the summit is about 1 hour and 30 minutes, for a total of about 4 hours and 45 minutes from the start of the hike.

The descent takes place on the opposite side, which is gentler and wooded, offering a gradual decompression after the intense verticality of the ascent.

Useful Notes

The Perona-Saglia Via Ferrata is excellently equipped, with stirrups positioned intelligently and unobtrusively. Excellent physical condition and prior experience on challenging via ferratas are essential. You will notice the presence of a black sheathed cable that forms a loop near the bolts. This feature is optimal for safety in the event of a fall. On the other hand, the cable tends not to be taut, offering less pulling assistance: it is therefore advisable to climb actively, using natural and artificial holds. At the ticket office for the Tibetan bridge, you can rent via ferrata equipment. In the same area, you will also find the long "Bompard" suspension bridge. The route is dedicated to the memory of Mario Perona, mountain guide, and Aldo Saglia, pilot, who passed away in 2003. The construction of the via ferrata, desired by Perona, dates back to 2010. The route can be combined with other via ferratas in the area, such as the Ferrata del Bunker on the opposite side of the bridge, the Ferrata della Batteria Bassa, and the Ferrata dello Chaberton.

The choice of materials and their placement reflect a philosophy that prioritizes active climbing over assisted progression, characterizing the experience as technical and engaging.