Ferrata Tenente Ferrante di Ruffano

Overview

Built by the Alpine Corps near Pontebba (UD), the Via Ferrata Tenente Ferrante di Ruffano is a vertical, athletic, and physically demanding route. Its low-altitude location makes it ideal for winter training, when the high mountains are inaccessible. The route is recent, with fixtures in excellent condition, and offers a unique experience in the region, characterized by a predominantly vertical line on compact rock.

Approach

Access is near Pontebba. From the highway exit, head toward the town center, cross a bridge, and immediately after the viaduct, turn right onto a paved road that passes under the highway. The track, initially paved and then gravel but easily drivable, ends at a large parking area. From here, following the sign for Falesia Rio degli Uccelli, a trail reaches the start of the via ferrata in about five minutes. The path, aided by a few fixed ropes, gains a few meters of elevation on the right orographic side of the stream, staying close to the streambed.

Via Ferrata

Next to the commemorative plaque, the steel cable begins with a decisive steep vertical, immediately defining the athletic character of the climb. The first meters on smooth slabs lead with a traverse to the right toward a small ledge. A short ledge to the right quickly ends, forcing a horizontal traverse of 6-8 meters, whose difficulty is heightened by the lack of footholds on the polished rock. After overcoming this section, which requires a slight descent, the route resumes climbing vertically, eased by a couple of rock steps that break up the effort. After this section, sometimes overcome with the help of stirrups, you pass a short stretch of unstable scree: be careful not to dislodge rocks, which would fall directly onto the ascent route. Follow a ledge to the left, and the via ferrata aims toward a prominent dihedral. Climb it initially on the right side, then traverse across and continue on the left, vertically but without significant technical difficulty, thanks to numerous rock steps. You then reach an overhanging section, to be tackled decisively, especially when clipping carabiners in an exposed position. After the overhang, you find yourself on a vertical wall in strong exposure, equipped with an abundance of rock steps that allow brief rests. After the wall, move onto solid, well-holded rock to the left, to tackle a nice vertical face. The cable continues to the left, guiding the ascent of a dihedral that leads to a series of easy ledges. After this more restful section, the route resumes with a few demanding vertical meters, until reaching an equipped trail among the pines. This detour allows access to a panoramic viewpoint. The via ferrata resumes with a slightly descending traverse to the left, where you need to watch for loose rocks. This is followed by another ascending traverse to the left, not difficult but slightly overhanging, leading to an edge. From here begins a long section of equipped descent on a slab, not particularly difficult but requiring some care in finding footholds. You finally reach the end of the via ferrata in about one hour and thirty minutes from the start.

Descent

The return follows the trail used for the nearby free climbing routes. The walk back to the starting point takes about thirty minutes from the end of the via ferrata, for a total time of about two hours.

Useful Notes

This recent via ferrata represents a unique opportunity in the area: a training, vertical, and physically demanding route at low altitude, which does not lead to a summit but unfolds in a valley rich in climbing routes. It is a route not to be underestimated, also characterized by a long descent section. The route was built in 2012 by the Alpine Corps, on the occasion of the 140th anniversary of the Corps and the 150th of the CAI, with the contribution of the Municipality of Pontebba, and is dedicated to the memory of Lieutenant Antonio Ferrante di Ruffano, an Alpine officer during World War II. For the most difficult sections, it can be useful to know techniques for safely resting on the cable. The Friuli area offers numerous other possibilities, being halfway between the Carnic Alps and the Julian Alps.