Sentiero Attrezzato Guardiano

Overview

The Marino Guardiano Protected Path is a physically and technically demanding route, designed to reach the summit of Monte Pelf in the heart of the Schiara Group. The itinerary unfolds in two main parts: the first section consists of the ascent to Forcella Marmol via the Ferrata Piero Rossi, followed by the actual second protected section. While the technical difficulties on the protected passages are moderate, the overall setting is highly exposed, and the approach and descent trails demand constant concentration. The considerable length and total elevation gain suggest planning this route as a multi-day outing, making use of the available support points in the area.

Approach

Access begins from the village of Case Bortot (695 m) in the province of Belluno. From Belluno, take the road toward Col di Lana, then turn right toward Bolzano Bellunese and the Belluno Dolomites National Park. After passing Bolzano Bellunese and Gioz, follow signs for Rifugio Case Bortot to the end of the drivable road, where a large clearing serves as parking.

From here, the long approach begins. Take trail 501, which starts with a pleasant stretch through the woods and descends to the Ponte del Mariano (reached in about 30 minutes). After crossing the bridge, at a junction ignore trail 507 on the right (which will be used for the descent) and continue on trail 501. The climb becomes steeper, ascending the valley of the Ardo stream with a series of switchbacks, until emerging into the clearing of Rifugio VII Alpini (1502 m, reached in about 2 hours and 45 minutes from the parking lot).

To gain Forcella Marmol, the base of the Sentiero Guardiano, use the Ferrata Piero Rossi. From the rifugio, follow trail markers 503 north, passing through the distinctive Porton, to the start of the Ferrata Zacchi (reached in 45 minutes from the rifugio). Ascend the first common section of ferrata (about 100 meters) to a junction: here, leave the Zacchi by taking trail 514 to the right for the Ferrata Piero Rossi. The route continues upward, passes the Bivacco Bocco - Zago (2266 m), and ignores a left turn toward the summit of Schiara. The itinerary, alternating between protected sections and trail, finally leads to Forcella del Marmol (2262 m), reached in about 3 hours from the ferrata start (for a total of about 6 hours and 30 minutes from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata

From Forcella Marmol, the Marino Guardiano Protected Path begins. The first sector is the most vertical and technical: you immediately tackle some vertical passages and a traverse to the left, on compact rock with well-maintained equipment. After about fifteen minutes, the metal protections end, and you proceed on an exposed trail that develops eastward, staying just below the ridge on the north side (watch out for residual ice).

You then encounter a new short protected section that approaches the ridge, offering a magnificent view of the Schiara. The ascent toward the summit of Pelf continues, alternating between easy protected rock steps and an exposed ledge to the left. The final section is the most thrilling: a ridge itinerary, initially wide and unprotected, which then presents some airy protected passages. You climb to a gravelly saddle and, with the last meters on trail and rock steps, reach the summit of Monte Pelf (2502 m), marked by a wooden cross on a cairn. The travel time from Forcella Marmol is about 1 hour and 30 minutes, for a total of about 8 hours from the parking lot.

Descent

The descent follows the long normal route (trail markers 511). From the summit, follow the ridge eastward, immediately tackling a long and demanding section of descending rock steps that requires maximum attention. After this key passage, technical difficulties decrease, but attention must remain high to follow the trail, given the presence of sometimes faded and sporadic markings.

You lose elevation steadily until a junction: to the right, trail 505 leads to Rifugio VII Alpini, but continue left on trail 511 toward Mariano. The descent continues through meadows and then into the woods, passing by the dated Bivacco Casera Medassa (1342 m). Further on, you join trail 507, keeping right toward Ponte Mariano. After reaching the bridge, briefly climb back up on approach trail 501 to return to Case Bortot. The descent from the summit takes about 3 hours and 30 minutes, for a total hike time of about 11 hours and 30 minutes.

Useful Notes

The Marino Guardiano Protected Path has moderate technical difficulty on the protected sections, but should not be underestimated. It is a very long and physically demanding hike, with an approach that already includes a full via ferrata (the Piero Rossi). It is recommended only for experienced hikers and should be planned with stable weather, given the exposure and isolation of the environment. The presence of ice on north-facing slopes, even late in the season, is a risk to consider. The ideal approach is to split the ascent over two days, staying overnight at Rifugio VII Alpini or the Bivacco near Forcella Marmol.

The Schiara Group area lends itself to combining this itinerary with other challenging via ferratas such as the Zacchi, the Berti, or the Sperti, to create multi-day routes of an alpine character. For those seeking shorter and more accessible ferratas, a short distance away toward the Cadore region you'll find the Parete dei Falchi, the Palestra di Roccia della Val Gallina, and the Ferrata della Memoria al Vajont.