Ferrata Guido Rossa

Overview

The Ferrata Guido Rossa at Caprie, formerly known as the Ferrata della Rocca Bianca, is a physically demanding route that winds up the prominent limestone outcrop of the Rocca di Caprie. While it doesn't reach extreme levels of technical difficulty, it demands excellent athletic conditioning and constant focus, offering a succession of highly varied situations. The progression alternates between exposed sections on vertical walls, airy traverses, and a short overhang, culminating in the crossing of a 25-meter-long suspension bridge with a pronounced swing. This report has not been updated since the route reopened in October 2021.

Approach

The route starts in the town of Caprie, in the province of Turin. Leave your car on Via Colomba, from which the ferrata's wall is already clearly visible. An information board describes the itinerary. Take the trail on the right that leads to the start. At the first fork, keep right (signage present) and continue until you reach the sign marking the beginning of the Ferrata Guido Rossa, reachable in about 15 minutes of walking from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

The start begins immediately on a boulder still in a wooded area, followed by a few easy slabs. Once out of the woods, a steep section begins, characterized by two or three fairly sustained pitches, made more challenging by rock that isn't always optimal for holds. Climb up a poorly defined ridge, staying on the left side, which gradually widens into a traverse equipped with some stirrups. The progression turns vertical again on a wall with a slight overhang. After passing a boulder in strong exposure, this first sector concludes about 20 minutes from the start; at this point, there is a marked escape route.

Proceed through the woods following red blazes and a sign for the "Placca delle Malizie" until the start of the second section. Set off again vertically on a fairly smooth slab, where stirrups make the climb easier until you top out over a bulge. The progression continues, alternating vertical sections, diagonals, and walks along ledges, with the exposure becoming increasingly evident. You reach a horizontal point, ideal for a scenic break. Then tackle the suspension bridge, about 25 meters long, which can be bypassed if desired.

Immediately after, a steep and demanding overhanging section begins-the key passage of the route-where the cable passes through the rock. This move requires two carabiners to be clipped in an awkward position, and using a quickdraw can be a great help. Continue climbing up a vertical, exposed wall to an adherence traverse, then go around the wall diagonally to reach the summit. Here, you encounter sloping slabs and an easy rocky step to climb. After a few more steps, you meet the last equipped wall: the slight overhang and accumulated fatigue must not let your attention drop. Finally, you reach the summit at the end of a beautiful, varied, and challenging ferrata. The climbing time from the start is about 2 hours, for a total of 2 hours and 15 minutes from the parking area.

Descent

For the return, descend the trail on the right marked for "Campambiardo," then follow the signs for Caprie through the woods until you reach the parking area. The descent takes about 30 minutes from the summit, for a total round trip of 2 hours and 45 minutes.

Useful Notes

While not classifiable as difficult, the Ferrata Guido Rossa is a varied route that is physically demanding in several sections. The presence of numerous vertical climbs, some slight overhangs, and considerable exposure increases the perceived difficulty. It is nonetheless an extremely pleasant and rewarding route. The Caprie area is also renowned for its many rock climbing routes, suitable for all enthusiasts.

The ferrata, closed following a fire in 2017, was reopened and dedicated on October 17, 2021, to the memory of Guido Rossa. A worker, trade unionist, and mountaineer, Rossa was killed by the Red Brigades in Genoa in 1979 for denouncing their activities. He is remembered nationally for his civil courage and in mountaineering circles for his activity in the "Gruppo Alta Montagna" of the CAI of Turin.

In the surrounding area, in the Val di Susa, you'll find other interesting via ferratas such as the Ferrata della Ruceia and the Ferrata Carlo Giorda. Heading up toward the alpine ridge, you'll encounter numerous other options, including the Ferrata del Rouas at Bardonecchia and, at Claviere, the Ferrata di Rocca Clarì, the Ferrata del Bunker, the Ferrata della Batteria Bassa, and the long Ferrata allo Chaberton. In 2024, the Ferrata delle Cascate di Novalesa was opened.