Ferrata Mazzetta alla Croda di Tacco

Overview

The Ferrata Mazzetta is a mid-elevation protected link between the Bivacco Gera and the Val Padola side, deep in the wild Sesto Dolomites. The technical difficulty of the via ferrata is moderate, but the overall route is demanding and little-traveled, characterized by an approach that can include the ascent to Forcella de Ambata and a descent through an unstable, debris-filled gully, with sections of unprotected free climbing. Compared to the more famous routes in the group, this itinerary offers an experience of genuine isolation, suited for those seeking an adventure far from the busier trails, even in high season.

Approach

The recommended starting point is Padola, a hamlet in the Comelico area of the province of Belluno. If the lifts are running, they provide easy access to Col d'la Tenda, where you can park. When the lifts are not in service, you can park along Via delle Acque Rosse, the road that climbs the right bank of the Rio Aiamola. After about two kilometers, the gravel road becomes rough and rutted; from here it's best to continue on foot, as the track coincides with trail 152, which leads to the Rifugio Col d'la Tenda or, skirting the hut, directly to the start of the ferrata.

Once at the hut (1950 m), a faint trail heading east leads, with a modest climb, to the junction with trail 152. At this point, a fundamental choice presents itself:

1. The full, wild itinerary: to reach Forcella de Ambata (2213 m), keep right towards Rocca di Campo, pass Forcella del Campo, and continue traversing north. A junction marks the start of a demanding trail over scree, with exposed sections and free climbing up to grade I+, which takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the lifts to the pass. From here, descend an unstable, debris-filled gully (about 30 minutes) to the Bivacco Carlo Gera (2240 m), for a total approach time of about 2 hours and 30 minutes. From here, you begin the Ferrata Mazzetta to complete the loop.
2. Direct route to the ferrata: to do only the ferrata (out and back), keep left, entering the rough valley below the Croda di Tacco. At the junction of trails 152 and 153, take trail 152 to the right, tackling a steep and breathless climb eastward that leads to the first fixed cables.

The following description follows the direction of travel from Bivacco Gera to Col d'la Tenda, which is valid for both options.

Via Ferrata

From the Bivacco Gera, head south along the valley. After about 10 minutes, a junction requires you to keep left, traversing towards the south face of the Croda di Tacco. Shortly after, a small white and red metal sign marks the official start of the Ferrata Mazzetta.

The route initially develops along a cable-protected ledge that bends right, before tackling the first vertical step on a face rich in holds and excellent steps in compact dolomite. After this first section, the path continues over grassy slopes heading south (watch out for slippery grass when wet), gaining height until a tricky descent over scree. Here it's advisable to keep left, close to the wall, using the cable as a handrail.

Rounding a corner, the direction changes to east. You face another well-holded vertical step, where you can climb for most of its length without relying too heavily on the cables. The route threads through a characteristic cleft between the wall and a pinnacle, with the cable on the left. The rock in this sector is solid and offers pleasant climbing. The ascent continues towards the obvious notch of Forcella di Tacco (2347 m), reached after a succession of protected rock steps, a diagonal ramp, and some ledges, interspersed with short, non-exposed trail sections that allow you to catch your breath. The rhythm is therefore discontinuous, alternating short vertical bursts with more horizontal traverses. The time from the start to the pass is about 1 hour.

The pass marks the watershed between the Valle Ambata and the Val Padola. A white sign might be misleading, but the fixed cables continue for a descent of about 20 meters over easy rock steps, turning first right and then left towards the valley, until the definitive end of the cables (15 minutes from the pass; 1 hour and 15 minutes from the start of the ferrata; 3 hours and 45 minutes total from the start of the hike).

Descent

From the end of the cables, descend initially to the left over debris, then enter a steep descent into a valley where the terrain, due to landslides and rain, is unstable and requires caution. Reaching the junction between trail 152 (which descends from the ferrata) and trail 153 (which traverses), keep left towards the ski lifts. The descent, rather monotonous and physically demanding due to the loose ground, takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes, for a total hike time of about 5 hours and 15 minutes.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Mazzetta occupies a particular niche in the landscape of the Sesto Dolomites. While most via ferratas are designed as direct ascents to peaks and spires, this one primarily serves as a practical link to cross a pass and reach a bivouac, offering less spectacular views but guaranteeing a wild and solitary experience, in stark contrast to the crowds on very touristy routes like the Ferrata Scalette or the Innerkofler.

The free climbing sections for Forcella de Ambata should not be underestimated and require a certain comfort on rock, just as snow cover can significantly increase the overall challenge, turning the gully into a trap. There are other access routes to the Bivacco Gera, for example from Forcella Anna (trail 152) or from the Val Ambata from Villanova di Cadore (trail 123), but these are long itineraries that would require a large loop and complex logistics.

The protected sections do not present high technical difficulties (remaining at grade 2) and primarily serve as security on exposed points, while the main challenge lies in the length and isolation of the route. For navigation, given the relative scarcity of signage in some sections, a detailed map of the Sesto Dolomites area is highly recommended.