Ferrata Piccolin a Cima Auta

Overview

Built in 1969, the Ferrata Paolin Piccolin runs along the Cima d'Auta Orientale in the Marmolada group. This is a full-day route of moderate difficulty, characterized by significant elevation gain and a trail that sees few visitors. Reaching the summit rewards you with exceptional panoramic views, offering a solitary, expansive experience.

Approach

The access point is the hamlet of Colmean, above Caviola in the province of Belluno, reachable from Passo San Pellegrino, Passo Rolle, or Cencenighe Agordino. From Caviola, follow signs for Colmean and the Cima d'Auta road to the parking area at 1274 m. From here, take trail CAI 689, which climbs at a steady gradient along a wooded dirt road toward the Baita dei Cacciatori (1751 m). Continue without detouring to the hut; the trail leads in about 1 hour and 15 minutes to the Baita Giovanni Paolo I (1865 m).

Near the hut, a path with wooden steps branches off to the right. You quickly exit the forest and find yourself at the foot of the imposing south face of Cima d'Auta Orientale. The steep trail heads directly toward the Forcella di Medil, the notch between the eastern and western summits. At a junction, ignore the trail CAI 696 to the right (the normal descent route) and keep left, following signs for the via ferrata. Follow a sometimes faint path that leads to the start of the Ferrata Paolin Piccolin, reached in about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route begins on slabs and small rocks, then tackles a first vertical step. This is overcome using a stirrup that leads to the first metal ladder. After completing this passage with the help of two more stirrups, the route bends left into a horizontal traverse that leads to the mouth of a narrow gully. Progress continues vertically inside the gully, using three stirrups, then climbs three more to the right and exits. A short diagonal equipped section leads to the base of a second metal ladder, 6-8 meters long.

After the ladder, climb some easy slabs and enter a debris-filled gully that approaches the notch. After a few minutes of easy trail and another short ladder, you reach the crux of the entire route: a tight chimney. Tackle it staying on the right side, where a few stirrups ease the climb in an otherwise technical environment. Using opposition for footholds as well, climb to the exit, aided by some pegs on polished rock.

Out of the chimney, follow a short ramp sloping to the right before rounding an exposed corner on a traverse. Past the corner, a well-holded vertical step leads to a small notch. You are now in the final stages of this section, in sight of the Forcella di Medil. Following the cable with easy moves on rocks, you reach the temporary end of the equipment on the wide plateau of the notch, with Cima d'Auta Occidentale to the left and the dramatic view of the south face of the Marmolada to the right.

From the plateau, following tracks to the right (Cima d'Auta Orientale), you encounter equipped rock sections and trail where the cable serves as a simple handrail. Then tackle a slab, climbing a metal ladder and moving in adherence on sloping rock. The equipment then bends right onto a ledge, before facing a new vertical wall, at times exposed but well supplied with holds. After this section, continue on rocks and then trail to a junction: to the left begins the equipped descent, while to the right you quickly reach the summit cross of Cima d'Auta Orientale (2624 m). The climbing time from the start of the via ferrata is about 1 hour and 45 minutes, for a total of about 3 hours and 45 minutes from the start of the hike.

Descent

From the summit, return to the junction to take the descent, initially equipped with a couple of technical passages. Descend a challenging slab section followed by a vertical step served by a metal ladder. After about ten minutes of equipped progression, the difficulties ease, and you continue on trail along the normal ascent route. At a junction, keep right (marker 696) for the steep Sentiero Attrezzato Bortoli. This path, with equipped sections on ledges and short vertical steps, descends below the south face and leads back to the junction encountered during the approach. From here, retrace the approach trail, passing the Baita Giovanni Paolo I and the Rifugio Baita dei Cacciatori, back to the parking area. The descent from the summit takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes, for a total hike time of about 6 hours and 30 minutes.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Paolin Piccolin is set in a broad hiking context, with a physical approach and an equipped descent that should be considered integral parts of the commitment. The climbing sections generally present no substantial difficulties, and exposure is well managed. Some passages, such as the chimney, the traverse, and the slab on the descent, require greater concentration, but overall the via ferrata maintains a moderate difficulty. The view from the summit is extraordinary, encompassing the Pale di San Martino, the Marmolada, and its group. Encounters with groups of ibex are frequent along the route, which remains solitary and little-traveled even in high season. Given the overall length, it is difficult to combine other via ferratas on the same day, except for the Sentiero Attrezzato Bortoli on the return. The Marmolada group area nonetheless offers a rich selection of equipped itineraries.