Ferrata Averau

Overview

The Ferrata dell'Averau runs up the highest summit in the Nuvolau Group, in the Ampezzo sector of the Dolomites. It is a very short equipped route, universally rated as easy. The climbing is generally straightforward, interrupted only by a brief vertical section of polished rock offering few holds. Its accessibility is high, thanks to the proximity of Rifugio Averau, and it lends itself perfectly to being combined in a single day with the nearby Ferrata Ra Gusela, forming a loop of great hiking value.

Approach

Access to the via ferrata can be made from two sides: Passo Falzarego to the north or Passo Giau to the south. The quickest approach starts from the latter. From Passo Giau, reachable from Cortina d'Ampezzo or Selva di Cadore, descend toward Selva for about three kilometers to the parking area of Rifugio Fedare, where the bottom station of the chairlift that conveniently takes you up to Rifugio Averau is located. Alternatively, from Passo Falzarego, park at the pass itself and take the trail 441 on foot, which continues as 419. This hiking route, with a steady but never excessive gradient, climbs from the pass elevation (2105 m) to Forcella Averau (2435 m) in about an hour and a half. From the forcella, skirting around the mountain, you reach Rifugio Averau (2413 m) in a quarter of an hour, for a total of about one hour and forty-five minutes from Falzarego. From the rifugio, a well-marked trail heading north-northeast leads comfortably to the walls of Averau, reaching the start of the via ferrata in about fifteen minutes.

Via Ferrata

From the start, you have a clear view of the route's initial development. The itinerary opens with a diagonal traverse of about ten meters to the left, on solid rock rich in holds. The morphology changes quickly: you then tackle a vertical climb of a few meters up a compact, polished slab devoid of natural holds. This constitutes the key and most challenging passage of the entire route, where decisive pulling strength in the arms is required. Reaching a fork, you have a choice: to the left, you ascend inside a narrow chimney aided by a few stirrups, while to the right, you continue up a vertical slab about six meters high, technically less demanding. The chimney is often used for descent, especially during busy periods, to avoid congestion on the route, which is traveled in both directions. The pace then becomes more relaxed along a horizontal ledge, up to the second vertical section, characterized by a small equipped gully. After an initial step, you climb the gully using the numerous footholds, until the point where the fixed equipment ends (about 15 minutes from the start). From here, to reach the already visible summit cross, you need to skirt around the summit walls. You proceed on unsecured terrain following some cairns, preferably staying on the right side to avoid a few rocky outcrops before reaching the top. The view from the summit cross of Averau (2649 m) is magnificent, with a 360-degree panorama over the Tofane and the nearby Cinque Torri. The total time from the rifugio is about 45 minutes.

Descent

From the summit, you descend by retracing the ascent route. It is essential to consider that, especially on summer weekends, the descent along the via ferrata can be subject to congestion, significantly altering travel times. Once back down at the start, depending on your starting point, you will decide whether to return to Rifugio Averau to use the chairlift toward Passo Giau, or to head toward Rifugio Scoiattoli and then take trail 440 in the direction of Passo Falzarego.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata dell'Averau is classified as easy and suitable for beginners, as evidenced by the high traffic, sometimes even from hikers not properly equipped. Despite its brevity and lack of substantial difficulty, it requires attention at a couple of specific passages, particularly the initial smooth slab section that demands a minimum of pulling strength. A crucial aspect not to be underestimated is that the route must also be descended, a circumstance that often alters the perception of difficulty, making some passages more exposed and psychologically demanding in the opposite direction. From the summit, you enjoy an exceptional panorama of the main Dolomite groups. For navigation, a detailed map of the Cortina area and the Dolomiti d'Ampezzo is recommended. The itinerary lends itself perfectly to being combined with the nearby Ferrata Ra Gusela, creating a highly satisfying loop. The Passo Falzarego area is extremely rich in other proposals for via ferrata enthusiasts, including the Sentiero Attrezzato Kaiserjäger and the Ferrata Brigata Alpina al Col dei Bos on the Lagazuoi, as well as numerous routes on the Tofane and toward Val Badia or the Agordino.