Ferrata Fusetti al Sass de Stria

Overview

The Ferrata Fusetti is a route of moderate difficulty that unfolds along the southern flank of the Sass de Stria, above the Passo di Valparola, on the border between the provinces of Belluno and Bolzano. Built by the Alpini corps, the via is named after Lieutenant Mario Fusetti, who fought valiantly in these mountains during the First World War. The itinerary offers a logical and satisfying climb, set within a historically significant context-a true open-air museum that tells the story of the fierce battles of the Lagazuoi and the Dolomites.

The environment is classic Dolomite, with compact, solid rock, predominantly limestone. The route alternates between slabs and ledges, maintaining a largely vertical character that is always well-structured. The pace of the ascent is continuous, with few ups and downs, and the exposure is moderate, allowing you to fully enjoy the panorama without excessive tension. The overall experience is technical yet accessible, with a strong added value from the presence of wartime relics.

Approach

The starting point is the large parking area at Passo di Valparola, near the fort, easily reachable from Val Badia, Cortina d'Ampezzo, or from the Veneto side of Col di Lana. To reach the start of the ferrata on the south side of the Sass de Stria, you have two options.

The most direct route (about 30 minutes) involves taking the smaller trail that descends westward from the saddle. In five minutes you reach the Edelweiss military position. From here, carefully look for an unmarked path (no CAI signposts) that bends left, skirting the wall. Soon, red blots appear, followed by the classic white-red trail markers. The path, with some easy ups and downs along the west wall, leads beneath the imposing bastions of the south face. A stone with an inscription marks the final turn: follow it diagonally for about a hundred meters to reach the start of the ferrata.

The longer alternative (about 1 hour) initially follows the gravel road that climbs from the pass toward the Falzarego. It allows you to visit the evocative War Galleries, then skirts the entire east side of the mountain and moves to the south side until you reach the same marker stone.

The direct approach follows an airy trail that runs along a scree ledge at the base of the wall, offering an early preview of the rock structure. The path is exposed but safe, with a brisk walking pace that prepares you for the effort ahead. The environment is rugged, marked by glacial geomorphology and traces of war, making the approach particularly evocative.

Via Ferrata

From the start, the first few meters are straightforward: you climb diagonally to the left up a low-angled rock face. After a short connecting section, a series of easy rock steps begin. Watch out for the loose scree on the ground, which requires caution to avoid dislodging stones onto those below. Continuing without major difficulty, you move to the right until you reach a comfortable ledge with a wooden rockfall shelter, marking the end of the first, easy section. The Dolomite panorama from here is magnificent.

The route then develops across a low-angled slab, well-suited for climbing. You first ascend to the right, then follow a horizontal section to the left. This is followed by a short chimney that is not difficult and rich in holds. After this section, you find yourself beneath the most challenging part of the route, of moderately difficult difficulty. Here, the slab becomes vertical and the footholds, though present, are less obvious. You overcome this wall of about ten meters to reach a war tunnel, a sign that the end is near. The final meters, still on low-angled terrain, lead to the exit. The climbing time for the ferrata is about 45 minutes from the start.

The route unfolds across well-formed slabs and chimneys in the dolomite, with a vertical development concentrated in the central section. The pace is fluid, with technical but not extreme passages, interspersed with rest spots on ledges. The exposure increases gradually but remains contained, while the character of the itinerary is predominantly climbing-oriented, with a moderate physical component. The environment is dominated by the south face, sunny and open, ensuring a continuous panoramic experience.

Descent

The ferrata ends on a plateau halfway up the normal ascent route to the Sass de Stria. From here, in about 20 minutes, you can make a direct return to Passo di Valparola. However, a climb to the summit is highly recommended.

The trail to the top initially winds among the numerous war trenches, a poignant testament to past battles. The panorama opens up to the majestic Lagazuoi with its Kaiserjager Trail. After overcoming some easy Class I rock steps and walking along more trenches, you tackle two sets of ladders with fixed ropes. In about 30 minutes from the end of the ferrata, you reach the summit, rewarded with a 360-degree view of the magnificent surrounding Dolomite groups.

The descent to the pass or the climb to the summit takes place in a unique historical and moral environment, among the remains of barracks and positions. The pace becomes more walking-oriented, with exposed but safe sections along the summit ridge. The experience is completed with the panoramic view from above, allowing you to appreciate the complex morphology of the group and the layout of the route just completed.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Fusetti on the Sass de Stria is a very logical and climbable ascent that satisfies even experienced via ferrata enthusiasts (who can minimize their use of the cable) while presenting moderate technical difficulties. The approach and return are short, allowing you to combine it with other via ferratas in the area. The historical context is exceptional: a visit to the Great War relics is highly recommended. It is essential to pay maximum attention to the loose scree to avoid dislodging stones along the climbing line, which is particularly direct. For maps, the 4Land maps of Cortina and the Dolomiti d'Ampezzo or Val Badia are recommended.

The itinerary as a whole is well-balanced: the technical part is concentrated and well-protected, while the approach and return offer a hiking and historical dimension. The rock, of excellent quality, ensures secure holds and pleasant progression. The route is ideal for those seeking a complete experience, combining climbing with the discovery of a fundamental chapter of Alpine history.