Ferrata del Rouas

Overview

The Ferrata del Rouas is a recently installed route in the upper Val di Susa, right on the French border. The itinerary has a decidedly athletic character, with a variant B that demands considerable physical and technical commitment. The main route, excluding this deviation, is also suitable for a first approach to the activity, provided you have complete and well-maintained equipment. The via ferrata unfolds across a compact wall, shaping a route that alternates vertical sections with long traverses on ledges, offering a varied and continuous progression.

Approach

The route starts from the hamlet of Melezet in the municipality of Bardonecchia (TO). After crossing the village, proceed for about three hundred meters along the SP216. The access is marked by a satellite dish of a repeater; immediately after, you'll find a parking area with the relevant information board. From the parking lot, a very short trail leads in just over five minutes to the base of the wall, where the itinerary dedicated to Bompard and Perona begins. The quick approach and the already alpine setting immediately introduce the character of the climb.

Via Ferrata

The itinerary is divided into three independent segments, which can be climbed separately.

Sector A shares the start with sector B, ascending sloping slabs and rocky steps rich in stirrups. After the first slab, a traverse to the left skirts a bulge in the wall. Short vertical sections follow until a key junction: continuing straight up vertically enters sector B (Balma del Camoscio), while continuing the horizontal traverse to the left keeps you on route A. Proceeding, you tackle three vertical walls of increasing difficulty and progressive exposure, separated by non-technical traversing sections. In one specific passage, a bulky backpack can hinder progress; a quickdraw can be useful to temporarily secure it. Reaching a shoulder, the descent path from section B converges from the right, while to the left the escape route begins. The route continues with a long oblique traverse, a mix of horizontal and uphill progression, leading toward the cave area (Section C). Ignoring this deviation, the traverse continues to a suspension bridge. After crossing it, the assisted descent begins, a sequence of traverses and short vertical sections equipped with stirrups. This final section, never particularly difficult, ends after a few minutes. The climbing time for sector A alone, excluding deviations, is about 2 hours from the start. The pace is sustained but steady, with exposure that gradually increases, offering a continuous panorama of the valley.

Sector B branches off from the aforementioned junction, ascending a vertical section followed by a long traverse that requires good use of natural holds. You then tackle another demanding vertical section to reach the crux: a six-meter overhang, perfectly equipped with stirrups but tending to "bulge," pushing your body outward and putting serious strain on arm strength (a short quickdraw can make the move easier). The route, which here takes on a decidedly athletic and vertical character, continues with a slightly descending traverse that requires careful foot placement. You then overcome a dihedral and a pair of small overhangs, ending on an easy ridge that leads to the Rouas forest above. From here, a trail leads to the junction point with route A, where you can choose whether to continue on the via ferrata or descend to the valley. The time for this variant is 1 hour and 15 minutes from the junction. It is a continuous and physical sector, concentrating its main difficulty in a single, powerful overhanging passage on solid rock.

Section C is a short variant that branches off from route A. It consists of climbing a wall to access a natural cavity, crossed with a short suspended section, then descending back to the main route. It takes about 10 minutes from the deviation. This segment adds an element of play and exploration, breaking the linearity of the traverses with a small vertical ascent.

Descent

At the end of sector A, descend along a clear trail until you intercept a road. Follow it to the left to quickly return to the starting parking lot. The descent takes about 15 minutes from the end of the via ferrata. The total time for the excursion varies: about 2 hours and 20 minutes for sector A alone, while climbing all sections (A, B, and C) can take up to 4 hours. The quick, non-technical descent effectively closes the loop.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata del Rouas has a "French style": athletic, very well-equipped, and conceived as a standalone route, without the goal of reaching a specific summit. The main itinerary is fun and suitable for beginners, thanks to its excellent protection and logical progression, while variant B is reserved for experienced hikers due to its technical difficulty and concentrated physical effort. All protection materials are in excellent condition and recently installed. The Val di Susa offers numerous other possibilities for via ferrata enthusiasts, including those at Claviere, the Ferrata Guido Rossa at Caprie, the ferratas of the Orridi di Chianocco and Foresto, the Ferrata della Ruceia, and the recent Ferrata delle Cascate di Novalesa.