Ferrata dello Chaberton

Overview

The ascent of Monte Chaberton, perched on the Italian-French border, combines three distinct via ferratas starting from Claviere: the Ferrata della Batteria Bassa, the Ferrata della Batteria Alta, and the Ferrata Perona along the ridge. This route stands out for its considerable demands, with significant length, major elevation gain, and prolonged time spent at altitude. Weather planning is critical, given the overall duration and the length of the descent. The itinerary alternates between wooded areas, debris-filled valleys, and an exposed summit ridge, offering a complete and physically taxing experience.

Approach

The starting point is at the ticket office for the Claviere Tibetan Bridge, in Alta Val di Susa (Turin). Coming from Cesana Torinese, there is a large parking lot on the right; the ticket office is a distinctive wooden kiosk, easy to spot. From here, the route initially descends toward the bed of the Piccola Dora stream, following signs for the Ferrata della Batteria Bassa. You reach and walk along the old state road, crossing a short tunnel (headlamps aren't essential but are useful).

From the kiosk, take the trail that starts at the Chapel of San Gervasio, descending toward the watercourse. Upon reaching the stream, ignore the bridge on the right (for the Ferrata di Rocca Clarì) and continue staying on the left bank. The path leads to the start of the first via ferrata in about 30 minutes from the parking lot.

Note on alternative access: It's possible to skip the first section of the Ferrata della Batteria Bassa (the part that climbs from the stream up to the viaduct of the old state road). In this case, from the parking lot, walk about 200 meters along the new state road toward the tunnel. Just before it, at the junction, turn right onto the old state road. At a left-hand curve, on the left side of the road, you'll spot a tunnel with signs for the ferrata. Walk through it (about 30 meters, 15 minutes from the parking lot, elevation 1690 m) and, at the exit, tackle a traverse to the right to connect with the full via ferrata. This description considers the times for the complete route.

Via Ferrata

The itinerary is divided into three main sections, separated by trail segments and a long connection through open terrain.

First Section: Ferrata della Batteria Bassa The climb begins by ascending a gully that passes under the viaduct of the decommissioned Monginevro state road. The route unfolds on solid rock, offering sections of climbing on slabs and the use of stemples. The terrain encourages plentiful natural holds, allowing for a smooth pace and energy conservation. After passing the junction with the alternative "shortcut," the ascent quickly gains elevation, with the starting parking lot remaining visible behind you. The route then alternates between easy traverses, exposed ledges, rocky steps, and equipped walls on excellent rock. You'll encounter some more technical and enjoyable passages, such as a chimney to be climbed in a stem and a crack to pass through from below. A final stretch of trail leads to the military ruins of the Batteria Bassa (1910 m), reached in about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the start (roughly 2 hours total). At the end of this section, there is an escape route to the right, descending a steep trail to the old state road in a few minutes.

Second Section: Ferrata della Batteria Alta Continuing on trail number 604, you'll find on the left the sign marking the start of the Ferrata della Batteria Alta. This route consists of two segments separated by a trail section, which also serves as an escape route. The character of the climb is similar to the previous section: a beautiful, varied, and climbable route without particular technical difficulties. After completing the two equipped sections, continue on the trail until you reach the buildings of the Batteria Alta (2208 m), taking about 1 hour from the end of the Batteria Bassa (roughly 3 hours total).

Connection: Ascent of the Petit Vallon Before proceeding, it's essential to assess your energy levels, considering that nearly 1000 meters of elevation remain to the summit. A direct escape route to Claviere (about 1 hour) branches off to the left from the Batteria Alta. To continue, instead head to the right, ascending a long and strenuous debris-filled valley (the Petit Vallon). Following a clear track and a series of switchbacks, you'll gain about 400 meters of elevation until reaching the Shoulder of the Southeast Ridge (2670 m), the starting point for the ridge route. This monotonous and physically demanding stretch takes about 1 hour from the Batteria Alta (4 hours total) and marks the definitive transition to high-altitude terrain.

Third Section: Ferrata di Cresta Perona This section follows a mountaineering route that, with thrilling ups and downs, leads to the fort. Walking along the ridge, you'll soon encounter the equipment of the Ferrata Perona, which allows you to climb an initial arête. After about ten minutes of pleasant climbing, you gain the ridge crest, then continue just below it. The route winds along a beautiful ridgeline until reaching, after a descent, a four-rope suspension bridge. The way continues as a succession of slabs and ridge sections; Fort Chaberton always seems close, but the time to reach it is longer than appearances suggest. It presents no substantial technical difficulties, but accumulated fatigue demands maximum attention. After about 2 hours from the start of the ridge, the ferrata ends at the decommissioned Military Fort, just below the summit of Monte Chaberton (total time about 6 hours). The route is predominantly horizontal but intricate, with continuous ups and downs that increase the perceived effort, balanced by a magnificent panorama on both sides.

Descent

The descent follows the normal route of Chaberton. Follow a clear track that initially heads north, then descends with a steady gradient after a switchback heading south, toward Claviere. The return route is long and, while not technically difficult, requires concentration. In 2-3 hours, depending on your pace, you'll reach Claviere. Crossing the town, you return to the starting parking lot, for a total hike time of about 9 hours.

Useful Notes

This hike is very long and demanding, requiring excellent physical fitness and careful planning. Escape routes are available at the end of the Batteria Bassa and Batteria Alta sections. Once you leave the forest, in the Petit Vallon section and especially on the final ridge, you are in a high-mountain environment: it's essential to pay attention to weather conditions, possible snowy sections even late in the season, and the presence of verglas. It is strongly recommended to undertake the itinerary only in stable weather and with a generous safety margin for the long descent. Important: as of June 2023, the third section (Perona ridge) is closed for maintenance; it's necessary to check its opening status before departure.