Ferrata Gutturu Xeu

Overview

A medium-difficulty equipped route that unfolds through the spectacular, deeply incised Gutturu Xeu gorge near Iglesias, Sardinia. The via ferrata is characterized by significant exposure, with airy sections on vertical walls, and requires the use of double ropes for the descent, ensuring an intense experience. The metal infrastructure is generally well-maintained.

Approach

The route begins from the town of Iglesias. Take Via Cavalier San Filippo to its end, turn left onto Via Falcone, and immediately right onto a narrow paved road. After about 1.5 kilometers, on the right, you'll spot a dirt road heading uphill. Follow it for a few hundred meters to reach the start of the trail, marked by a barrier, where you can park.

From the parking area, a mule track leads in about 20 minutes toward the remains of an old iron mine at the foot of the massif. Just beyond, to the left of a small cavity, the first anchor points are visible. At this junction, you choose between the left variant and the right variant, which are of comparable technical difficulty. The right variant starts slightly higher, requiring a few meters of free climbing before clipping into the cable. Both options culminate with a 30-40 meter rappel, making it essential to carry ropes, a descender, and a lanyard.

Via Ferrata

Left Variant: The start is at a cave that once served as a mining tunnel. Following a cairn, you reach a ledge where the cable begins. The first moves are stepped and straightforward, trending right, then gradually become more vertical through rock and Mediterranean scrub. The route then shifts left toward a reddish gully, which you ascend with a fine vertical climb. Continue on an equipped trail with easy steps to a vertical wall near an edge. Staying on the left side, the climb uses numerous stemples that allow you to overcome the wall without significant technical obstacles. Rounding an edge to the right, you quickly reach the end of the via ferrata.

Right Variant: After the initial free-climbing meters needed to reach the cable, you start on easy equipped steps, moving left to a vertical wall. Stemples ease the vertical progression up to a comfortable terrace. The route resumes on stepped, hold-rich rock, leading to another vertical wall, also well-equipped. Climb straight up the slab, gradually shifting right on a very exposed but not difficult section, until you reach a dirt ledge.

From here, follow the equipped ledge to the right on a descent. After a descending traverse with good footholds, you round an exposed edge and, following the stemples, reach an airy traverse of about thirty meters to the right, which you cross literally over the void, aided by plentiful holds. You emerge onto a dirt ledge where the summit register is located.

The route continues on an equipped trail through vegetation, climbing low-angle slabs to a dihedral. Staying on the left side, you ascend using the stemples in an athletic passage with spaced holds and a slightly overhanging cable. Once past this section, difficulties ease, and you proceed up a wall of about thirty meters, always following the stemples, to the end of the Gutturu Xeu via ferrata.

For both variants, the descent from the final belay can be done by returning along the via ferrata or, more commonly, by making the rappel descents that bring you back to the base, near the start.

Descent

After completing the rappel maneuvers, return to the parking area by retracing the approach trail.

Useful Notes

It is essential to carry two ropes of at least 40 meters each, a descender, and an autoblocking lanyard to safely perform the double-rope descent. Occasionally, a local group of enthusiasts may have installed a zip line for the descent, but you cannot rely on its presence. The Iglesias area is also the starting point for other famous Sardinian via ferratas.