Ferrata Biasini

Overview

The Ferrata Biasini is a predominantly physical route, where the main challenge comes from the continuous vertical gain and constant exposure rather than from particularly complex technical passages. The route unfolds across compact slabs of smooth rock, systematically equipped with metal stirrups and a consistently taut safety cable that provides excellent protection. Its modest elevation allows it to be climbed for most of the season, except during winter when snow covers the lower slopes. Morphologically, the route runs along the flank of a well-defined ridge, characterized by vertical walls interspersed with ledges and terraces, offering a decidedly athletic and scenic character.

Approach

Access begins along the road that climbs from Chiavenna toward Pianazzola. Coming from the SS36 state road, after a series of switchbacks you'll find a small pullout with a fountain on the left, suitable for parking a few cars. A short ramp leads to the signpost for the Ferrata Biasini, from which the summit cross of Sench di Dalò is already visible in the distance. The approach trail, which takes about twenty minutes, requires careful attention to follow the faint tracks and the few red-and-white trail markers until you reach a prominent white sign marking the start of the fixed equipment. Though brief, this introductory section begins to set the tone for the rocky, wooded environment that defines the area.

Via Ferrata

The route starts with a sloping ramp that quickly brings you to the foot of an imposing vertical wall. This first big pull, richly equipped with stirrups, allows you to gain elevation decisively, immediately establishing the continuous, physical climbing rhythm. After overcoming this section, a horizontal traverse to the right-done with friction on the rock-leads beneath another vertical slab. The progression alternates between straight-line sections and changes in direction, first bending sharply left and then right to skirt a rocky bulge, creating a dynamic rhythm.

You then enter a long and spectacular dihedral, tackled on its left side in conditions of strong exposure. The numerous stirrups make progression easier, but the compact rock can be slippery when damp, requiring careful foot placement. Once the dihedral is finished, a spacious ledge offers a well-deserved rest and a breathtaking view of the Val Chiavenna, rewarding the effort so far.

The climb resumes with another vertical wall that leads to a second panoramic ledge. After a few rocky steps and a less demanding slab, the character of the route evolves: the rock gives way to a trail where the steel cable now serves as little more than a handrail. The final section runs along a ramp in a shallow dihedral, up to the point where the fixed equipment ends. From here, a short trail leads in a few minutes to the summit cross of Sench di Dalò. The climbing time from the start of the ferrata is about one hour and forty-five minutes, for a total of two hours and ten minutes from the car. The route maintains a sustained pace with few breaks, offering an immersive experience in an airy, open environment.

Descent

The return route begins on the opposite side of the cross, heading toward some stone ruins. Take the trail marked for Pianazzola on the right. The path, initially easy, becomes progressively steeper and more demanding, characterized by numerous steep, potentially slippery rock steps, where the use of trekking poles is recommended. This descent route, which takes about an hour from the end of the ferrata, crosses a more wooded and steep environment, presenting a physical and attentional challenge that complements the climb. Once you reach the hamlet of Pianazzola, descend along the paved road until you return to the starting point at the fountain. The entire loop takes roughly three hours and thirty minutes.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Biasini is a classic example of a "French-style ferrata," distinguished by the massive presence of stirrups along the entire route. While it does not present extreme technical difficulties (difficulty grade: challenging), its verticality, constant exposure, and compact rock make it more physically and emotionally demanding than the nearby Ferrata Succetti. The descent via the Pianazzola trail requires caution due to the occasionally unstable footing. This route is often combined with the Ferrata Succetti, located on the opposite side of the valley, to create a more demanding outing. For enthusiasts, the area offers other interesting possibilities such as the Ferrata della Galleria di Morcate, the Ferrata dei Picasass, or the Ferrata del Centenario CAO Como.