Ferrata CAI Mandello

Overview

The Ferrata CAI Mandello al Sasso dei Carbonari is a demanding route that culminates on the summit of Grigna Settentrionale (Grignone). The itinerary is defined by its length and physical challenge, while never reaching extreme technical difficulty. It unfolds along a distinctly exposed ridge, alternating equipped sections with chains and stirrups with stretches of climbing on solid rock. The route offers a complete and rewarding experience, requiring roughly eight hours to complete the loop in one of the most iconic settings of the Lecco Prealps.

Approach

The route begins from the large parking area at Cainallo, a hamlet of Esino Lario (LC). To reach it from Varenna, follow the road toward Esino Lario, with the final stretch being quite narrow. From the parking lot, take trail 24 heading to Rifugio Bietti (1719 m). Pass through Bocchetta di Prada, keeping left; the trail, winding through numerous switchbacks and undulating terrain with changes of aspect, leads to the refuge in about one hour and thirty minutes. The environment is classic pre-Alpine, with grassy slopes and sparse woods. From the refuge, proceed east toward the Canalone di Releccio and then the Canalone della Neve, until a marked junction for the via ferrata, where you keep right. A somewhat loose trail leads to the Sasso dei Carbonari, which you skirt to the right by climbing a small gully. At the top of this gully lies the start of the via ferrata, preceded by a short climb and a descent equipped with chains that brings you to the starting notch. The approach from the refuge takes about one hour, for a total of two hours and thirty minutes from the parking lot. This preparatory section has an uneven rhythm, with steep stretches alternating with gentler ones, foreshadowing the composite character of the entire ascent.

Via Ferrata

The start of the Ferrata CAI Mandello is immediately vertical on a wall about thirty meters high. Halfway up you encounter a metal ladder, while progress is secured by a chain and a few fixed anchors. The final section of the wall, developing through a rocky cleft, constitutes the most difficult passage of the entire route. Once past this section, you gain elevation across earthy steps and dwarf pines, then climb a grassy slope that gradually leads toward the ridge line. The ridge becomes progressively narrower and rockier, but the trail remains always clear. You meet a wall about fifteen meters high, to be climbed using a chain for assistance, which in this section can be quite loose. Beyond this passage, you are firmly on the ridge, in an exhilarating succession of ascents and descents, some equipped with chains and others to be tackled free. The panorama in this section is breathtaking, but demands comfort with exposure and a steady foot. The rhythm is varied and continuous, alternating short vertical steps with stretches of walking on rock slabs, all along a sharp watershed dominating both sides. The final obstacle is a wall about forty meters high, equipped with a few stirrups and the usual chain for assistance. Once at the top of this step, you reach the end of the via ferrata along the south ridge of Grigna Settentrionale. Continuing along the ridge, you meet the intersection with the Via del Caminetto (on the left) and continue straight to the Bocchetta del Releccio. From here, take the normal eastern route which, passing beside Rifugio Brioschi, leads to the summit of Grignone. The time from the start of the via ferrata to the summit is about two hours and fifteen minutes, for a total of four hours and forty-five minutes from the parking lot. The itinerary proves predominantly panoramic and continuous, with a climbing character on good rock, where exposure is constant but progression always remains logical and well-marked.

Descent

To complete the loop, from the summit of Grigna Settentrionale descend toward Rifugio Brioschi and continue along the northwest ridge. The descent involves crossing several rock slabs, partly equipped with chains. Continue along the trail (where early in the season snow may be present) to a junction: ignore the left deviation for Bocchetta dei Guzzi, keeping right instead. The route encounters a slightly more challenging downhill passage, fitted with a chain. Proceeding, you find a sign for Rifugio Bogani. Once at the refuge, take the trail southwest to a junction marked for Cainallo. Then take this trail, at times steep and exposed, which brings you back to the route traveled on the approach. From here, retracing your steps, you reach the parking lot at Cainallo. The descent from the summit takes about two hours and forty-five minutes, for a total loop time of roughly seven hours and thirty minutes. The descent rhythm is sustained, with technical rock sections alternating with smoother trails, in an environment that gradually leaves behind the harshness of the ridge and returns to wooded slopes.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata CAI Mandello al Sasso dei Carbonari is a highly rewarding itinerary, covering a significant elevation gain along an exposed and rugged ridge, yet never presenting high technical difficulty. It is strongly advised against attempting it in bad weather or fog, conditions that would greatly increase the risks, especially due to the exposure and length of the route. Opened in 1971, this via ferrata typical of the Lecco area uses a sturdy chain as its main means of protection. It is important to note that in many sections the chain is loose and with widely spaced anchor points, making safe and controlled progression absolutely essential to avoid any fall. The character of the itinerary is therefore more physical and endurance-based than purely technical, requiring good energy management for its entire duration. Regarding opportunities for combination, this is already a very long itinerary in itself, leaving little room for other activities on the same day, unless you plan an overnight stay at one of the refuges of the Grigne massif. In that case, you could consider other routes such as the Sentiero Attrezzato Cecilia, the Direttissima to Grigna Meridionale, or the Sentiero Attrezzato delle Foppe. Another interesting option is to approach the via ferrata starting from Mandello del Lario and ascending the Sentiero Attrezzato della Val Cassina, an itinerary that would further lengthen the day, suitable therefore only for very fit hikers.