Ferrata Minonzio allo Zucco Campelli

Overview

The Ferrata Mario Minonzio is a spectacular ridge route that leads to the summit of Zuccone Campelli, towering above the Piani di Bobbio. While it doesn't present extreme difficulties, it offers an extraordinary variety of technical and never-routine passages, characterized by notable exposure in an austere, alpine setting. Despite the modest altitude, the environment demands all the precautions typical of high mountain terrain. The route, discreetly equipped, delivers intense emotions in a context of great atmosphere.

The itinerary unfolds entirely along a rocky ridge, its character shaped by a succession of pinnacles, notches, and ledges. The rock, predominantly limestone, features solid sections alternating with more friable areas, contributing to a varied and never monotonous rhythm of progression. The constant exposure on both sides of the ridge amplifies the perception of the alpine environment, making the experience more challenging psychologically than physically.

Approach

The recommended starting point is the upper station of the cable car to Piani di Bobbio. To reach it, from Lecco follow the direction for Val Sassina, passing through Ballabio and arriving at Barzio. From the center of Barzio, signs lead to the cable car; ascending the road with a few switchbacks brings you to the parking area for the lifts. Alternative approaches exist from the Bergamo side, but this description considers the upper station as the start of the excursion.

From the cable car station, head toward the upper Rifugio Lecco, crossing the ski slopes. From here, take the obvious trail that climbs the left orographic side of the Valle dei Camosci. At a junction, leave the normal route to Zucco di Barbisino on the left and continue straight, following the yellow markings for the Sentiero Attrezzato Minonzio. The trail, always well-defined, leads to the first metal cables. Although this is not the official start of the ferrata, this is the recommended point to put on your harness. Traverse a ledge and begin climbing the first equipped sections, first diagonally to the right and then on a subsequent stretch, until reaching the actual start, marked by a red arrow in addition to the usual yellow traces.

The approach follows a wide, progressive trail that allows for good acclimatization to the altitude. The morphology of the slope is typically scree-covered, with grassy slopes gradually giving way to rocky slabs. The passage over the first fixed ropes, though not mandatory, effectively prepares you for the technical rhythm to come, introducing the need for constant management of gear and rope.

Via Ferrata

The start is immediately vertical. The first meters are easy climbing, followed by a passage made more challenging by a boulder that partially obstructs the way, requiring extra attention. After about ten meters, traverse left to bypass an unmarked edge, then resume climbing vertically on climbable rock.

You then reach a thin, unprotected ridge trail that leads to the next yellow markings and the resumption of the fixed equipment. Overcome some rocky steps, initially easy and then more demanding, finding yourself on the ridge with the summit of Zuccone Campelli in sight. Here begins a series of equipped ups and downs, sometimes on the right side, sometimes on the left, on ground that is occasionally friable and requires caution, especially on the descents.

You then arrive at the key passage of the route: a long gully to descend. The descent is prolonged and adrenaline-filled, but offers numerous natural holds and footholds. Descend between notches and pinnacles in an exciting crescendo, until crossing to the opposite side of the gully, where you start climbing again. The ascent alternates vertical sections, ledges, and short traverses, up to a metal ladder. After the ladder, tackle some easy rock steps and reach a ledge. Once across this, you come to the last challenging section: climb a crack with the cable on the left and many natural holds on the right. After the crack, pass through a notch in the rock, descend and climb again on a stony trail to the yellow sign marking the end of the Ferrata Mario Minonzio. A final short trail leads to the highest point of Zuccone Campelli (2173 m), reached in about 1 hour and 45 minutes from the start of the ferrata (2 hours and 30 minutes from the upper cable car station).

The rhythm of the route is characterized by strong discontinuity: vertical and technical sections alternate with short stretches of ridge walking, followed by exposed descents and climbs on slabs. The character is predominantly technical and panoramic, where exposure is a constant that modulates the intensity of the experience. The descent into the gully represents the heart of the itinerary, a horizontal but psychologically demanding passage due to its length and funnel-like morphology that concentrates the view toward the void below.

Descent

From the summit, facing the cross, continue to the right to the saddle at the end of the ferrata. Continue on the ridge trail toward a peak with a repeater. Just beyond, you encounter a crucial junction.

The first option descends to the right via the steep and unstable Canalone dei Camosci. The descent requires maximum attention to the loose ground (telescopic poles are very useful). As you descend, the ground becomes more gravelly and less dangerous, until you enter the Vallone dei Camosci, which leads back to Rifugio Lecco (about 1 hour and 45 minutes from the summit; 4 hours and 45 minutes total).

The second option ignores the gully, descending on the left side, which is gentler, in the direction of Rifugio Cazzaniga. Upon reaching the junction with Sentiero 101, you can choose to turn left for an interesting loop via Bocchetta dei Mughi, then descend to Rifugio Lecco via Sentiero 16 (about 3 hours from the summit; 6 hours total). Alternatively, you can continue toward the Sentiero Attrezzato degli Stradini and from there return to Rifugio Lecco (about 2 hours and 45 minutes from the summit; 5 hours and 45 minutes total).

The choice of descent route significantly affects the overall character of the outing. The Canalone dei Camosci is a morphologically severe environment, a steep scree gully that requires a sure and continuous step on unstable terrain. The alternatives on the left side offer a more walking-oriented and panoramic rhythm, developing on grassy slopes and gentler trails, suitable for prolonging the high-altitude experience with less technical commitment.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Mario Minonzio is a magnificent ridge itinerary, where the artificial equipment is intelligently distributed in a surprising environment. It masterfully combines easy sections, adrenaline-pumping passages, and technical sequences, such as the impressive descent into the gully. The difficulty, never excessive, is however constant, accompanied by abundant exposure along the entire route. It is absolutely not recommended in unstable weather. Also, beware of the approach gully, which may hold residual snow even early in the season.

For enthusiasts, there are interesting possibilities for combination. You can pair the ferrata with the Sentiero Attrezzato degli Stradini, starting from Piani d'Artavaggio. For the more experienced, a challenging option involves climbing the nearby Ferrata Zucco Pesciola, reaching the Cristo delle Vette with passages of grade I and II, then descending the Mario Minonzio. After completing the single climb, in the Lecco area you can consider other ferratas with short approaches, such as the Ferrata della Galleria di Morcate or the more difficult Ferrata al Corno del Medale.

The route requires good psychological preparation to manage the continuous exposure and a safe progression technique on variable rock. Its composite character makes it a formative and exciting itinerary, capable of offering a complete alpine experience at relatively moderate altitudes. Reading the environment is fundamental: the ridge responds directly to weather conditions, becoming challenging with wind or humidity.