Ferrata della Galleria di Morcate

Overview

The Ferrata Galleria di Morcate is a vertical route of moderate difficulty, ideal as a first taste of alpine climbing or for a short but intense outing. The route unfolds on a limestone wall that plunges directly into Lake Como, offering a spectacular and panoramic experience from the very start. Technically straightforward, the climb features continuous progression on solid anchors, with a few slightly overhanging sections that provide a good physical workout. The actual time on the via ferrata is under an hour, making it a perfect choice for an active afternoon or for pairing with other itineraries.

Approach

The starting point lies along the coastal road between Bellano and Varenna, at the Galleria di Morcate tunnel. The easiest access is from Bellano, reachable via State Road 36. From the town, head toward Varenna along the lakeside road, passing through the first tunnel. Just before the entrance to the second tunnel (the Galleria di Morcate), there is a pull-off on the right where a few cars can park. Alternatively, you can park on the right side of the road immediately after exiting the tunnel. The start of the route is inside the tunnel: from the fourth window coming from Varenna (i.e., the first coming from Bellano), you'll spot a metal fixture and a clearly visible starting rope. From here, climb over the window ledge to reach the initial cable in about five minutes from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

Once past the tunnel window, you're immediately suspended over the lake, with a dizzying sense of hanging above the water. The environment is a vertical wall of ledges and slabs, with rock that offers good grip. The route bends to the right along a short natural catwalk, then drops slightly to the first change of direction, where the cable turns ninety degrees upward. Here you tackle a first slightly overhanging wall, which introduces the route's character: extensive use of metal stirrups for footholds and a sturdy, continuous cable for protection. The climb proceeds at a steady, sustained pace with no forced rests. Ascending this section with a slight deviation to the right, you catch a glimpse of the upper part of the tunnel. A trail equipped with a handrail cable then traverses left, leading to a panoramic ledge.

The progression continues up a narrow gully, where older-style stirrups alternate on the right and left sides, making the climb straightforward with no particular technical challenges. At the gully's exit, the cable veers sharply to the right (note: to the left, the descent trail branches off and can be used as an escape route). You now find yourself at the base of a fine wall, which you climb by first moving right and then left of a bulge, using the abundant stirrups. The pace here is more physical, with a sequence of vertical moves. Continue to the route's key passage: climbing a corner, followed by a diagonal traverse ascending to the right, culminating in the final vertical wall section. This passage, while not difficult, is the most demanding on the route, on par with the overhanging wall midway, due to its exposure and the need for good coordination. Once past it, you reach a green marker pole signaling the end of the Ferrata Galleria di Morcate. The climbing time from the start is about 45 minutes, for a total of 50 minutes from the parking area.

Descent

It is recommended to keep your harness on, as the return trail, though short, includes equipped and exposed sections. Take a steep descending trail, assisted by a cable. The environment becomes wilder, with the rock forming a descent gully. You'll encounter a rockfall net: you must descend through a specific gap on the left side, from which a cable with a few anchors begins. Continue on the trail, which at one point intersects the ascent route. The final stretch of descent is characterized by smooth, steep rock; it's advisable to descend facing uphill and holding the cable, until you reach a series of stirrups that allow you to lower yourself to the base of the tunnel and return to the parking area. The descent takes about 20 minutes from the end of the ferrata, for a total outing of 1 hour and 10 minutes.

Useful Notes

There is a more difficult variant. Parking on the Bellano side of the tunnel, before the entrance you'll notice ropes on the right. This cable rejoins the main ferrata by rounding an exposed corner on the descent, which is not easy. Once past it, descend a roughly five-meter overhanging wall to a sloping slab suspended directly over Lake Como. Climbing slightly diagonally and using a few stirrups, you traverse horizontally to reach the first vertical wall of the main route. The short duration and nearly nonexistent approach of the Ferrata Galleria di Morcate make it perfect for pairing with other challenging routes in the area, such as the Ferrata degli Alpini at Corno del Medale, the Ferrata Contessi at Monte Due Mani, the Ferrata Gamma 1 at Pizzo d'Erna, or, on the opposite side of the lake, the Ferrata del Centenario CAO Como.