Ferrata Danesi al Corno Piccolo

Overview

The Ferrata Danesi is a protected climbing route that culminates on the summit of Corno Piccolo, in the eastern sector of the Gran Sasso massif. Often combined with the Sentiero Attrezzato Ventricini into a single itinerary, the route diverges from the normal path to Corno Grande and climbs the southeast face of the tower using a system of cables and ladders. The final meters involve a few sections of free climbing, rated between I and II, with no fixed protection.

Approach

The recommended starting point is Prati di Tivo. To reach it from the A24 motorway (Rome-Teramo), take the San Gabriele - Colledara exit, follow the SP 491 to Montorio al Vomano, then continue on the SS 80 del Gran Sasso toward L'Aquila, following signs for Prati di Tivo. An alternative approach from Rome can be made via Campo Imperatore. Note: in summer 2021, the Prati di Tivo cable car was not operating. In that case, the quickest option is to drive about 4 km further to the Rifugio Cima Alta (where parking is available) and from there hike up to the Madonnina station.

From Prati di Tivo, take the cable car (if operational) to Madonnina. From the square, a trail leads to a key junction. The left branch, heading toward Rifugio Franchetti, reaches the Sella dei Due Corni in about 2 hours and 15 minutes; from there, descending the Vallone dei Ginepri, you arrive at the start of the via ferrata in a total of 2 hours and 45 minutes. The recommended itinerary, however, takes the right branch, following a mid-slope path that leads to the Sentiero Attrezzato Ventricini. After completing this trail (about 2 hours from the cable car), you reach an unmarked junction. Ignoring the left track for the normal route to Corno Piccolo, continue straight up a steep and slippery climb; shortly after, a rock inscription next to a small metal plaque marks the start of the Ferrata Danesi (about 2 hours and 15 minutes from the cable car).

Via Ferrata

Access to the via ferrata is via a steep, loose, and unstable scree slope, which after some ups and downs leads to the actual start of the fixed equipment. The route progresses by ascending steep rocky gullies, featuring an alternation of steel cables and often very exposed ladders. The itinerary offers many enjoyable climbing sections, generally rated around II, with a couple of more demanding moves. The route underwent a significant upgrade in 2019.

The new route avoids the characteristic "hole" of the historic path, which required removing your backpack. Instead, you climb a slab on the left, leading to sections of rock now adequately protected. You then descend a few meters on the opposite side and ascend a distinctive passage between two wedged boulders, beyond which the fixed equipment ends.

Proceed for a few meters on level ground, overcoming some rocky steps, until you reach a notch in the rock that is crossed with the help of a fixed rope. At the end of the cable, the final diagonal meters bring you at last to the summit of Corno Piccolo. The time from the start of the via ferrata is about 1 hour, for a total of about 3 hours and 15 minutes from the cable car.

Descent

The return is via the steep normal route, which requires maximum caution as it features unprotected sections of I and II grade. Descending this section takes about 45 minutes. Afterward, retrace the entire outward itinerary, including the Sentiero Ventricini, back to the cable car station. The total descent time from the summit is about 2 hours and 30 minutes, bringing the overall duration of the excursion to about 5 hours and 45 minutes.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Danesi is generally rated as moderate difficulty, though it does have some more challenging sections. It is essential not to underestimate the alpine environment, especially during the descent via the normal route. A steady step, a head for heights, and familiarity with downclimbing on unsecured terrain are required. The itinerary is strongly discouraged in uncertain or unstable weather. Despite its challenges, the ascent of Corno Piccolo remains one of the most beautiful and rewarding hiking experiences in the entire Apennines.

An interesting option is to combine this via ferrata with the Sentiero Attrezzato Ventricini, of which it forms the natural completion. For fitter hikers, it is possible to conceive a large loop that, from the Sella dei Due Corni, allows reaching Rifugio Franchetti and the start of the Ferrata Ricci on Corno Grande Orientale, possibly considering an overnight stay in the refuge given the length of the route. The Gran Sasso massif also offers other highly interesting protected routes, such as the Ferrata Brizio, the Ferrata al Bivacco Bafile, the Sentiero del Centenario with the Ferrata Famigliari, and the Ferrata Bertona.