Ferrata Ricci al Corno Grande

Overview

The Ferrata Ricci reaches the summit of Corno Orientale, the most spectacular peak of Corno Grande in the Gran Sasso massif, though it stands nine meters lower than its neighboring western summit. The route unfolds across the majestic northeast face, an imposing rock bastion rising nearly 1500 meters that dominates the valley with a powerful visual impact. The line is predominantly vertical, with long stretches of continuous progression on solid rock, interspersed with brief ledges and suspended balconies.

Approach

The start is at Prati di Tivo, in the province of Teramo, accessible from the A24 motorway by exiting at San Gabriele-Colledara and following signs for the Strada Statale del Gran Sasso. The final stretch leads to the starting area. During operating periods, a cable car from the lower station provides easy access up to the Madonnina area. Note that in summer 2021 the lift was out of service; in that case, continue by car for about four kilometers toward the Rifugio Cima Alta, where parking is available, then hike the short remaining section up to Madonnina.

From the upper cable car station, take trail number 103 heading toward the east ridge of Corno Piccolo. Shortly after, near some embankments, you reach a junction: keep left in the direction of Rifugio Franchetti. The path, equipped with cables at the most exposed points, climbs a broad valley up to Passo delle Scalette, reaching Rifugio Franchetti in about an hour of walking. From the refuge, a clear track branches off to the left, descending briefly into the Vallone delle Cornacchie. Follow it, then ascend a scree slope that leads to the start of the Ferrata Ricci. The entire approach from the cable car station takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. The terrain is characterized by wide screes and fractured limestone, with a route that alternates between flat sections and moderate climbs, gradually preparing you for the challenge ahead.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route traverses the north face of Corno Grande. It begins by climbing a diagonal slab of moderate difficulty, ending at a notch where the steel cable momentarily stops. Bear left, crossing a short ledge and a stretch of scree until you find the cable again. Then tackle a long, sloping wall that is physically demanding but technically straightforward, introducing the most panoramic section of the route. Here the path winds along an exposed balcony sheer above the "Paretona" east face of Gran Sasso, offering a dizzying view over 1300 meters of vertical drop. The progression along this suspended ledge is horizontal and continuous, with constant exposure that demands confidence.

After this traverse, resume climbing by tackling an exposed arête about thirty meters long, considered the crux of the entire via ferrata. Despite the exposure, the compact rock offers good holds. Once past the arête, continue for a few dozen meters until the cable ends on the north anticima at 2700 meters. This via ferrata section takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. The pace is sustained, with a succession of short vertical steps and oblique sections on generally solid, well-stepped rock.

From the anticima, continue on rock, overcoming a few exposed but not difficult passages, until you intersect the normal route to Corno Orientale. Cross an exposed notch and climb some easy Class 1 rock steps, finally reaching the summit cross of Corno Orientale. The climb from the end of the cable to the summit takes about 30 minutes, for a total of 1 hour and 45 minutes from the start of the ferrata and about 3 hours from the cable car station. This final section, though unroped, follows a ridge with elementary climbing moves, concluding the route in an open, panoramic setting.

Descent

There are two options for the return. The first is to retrace the entire route in reverse, descending the Ferrata Ricci. The second, technically more demanding, is the descent via the normal route. From the summit, return to the junction with the ferrata and follow the white-red trail markers. Descend initially over rock steps requiring the use of hands (Class 1), then tackle an exposed and treacherous chimney with Class 2 downclimbing moves. This section, on often polished rock, requires careful footwork.

Past the chimney, the path becomes easier and leads to the terminal part of the Calderone Glacier, then to the junction for Corno Occidentale, and finally to the Sella dei Due Corni. From here, descend toward Rifugio Franchetti, reachable in about 1 hour and 15 minutes from the end of the ferrata. The total return to the cable car, including the descent from the refuge, takes about 5 hours and 30 minutes. The descent via the normal route has a technical, discontinuous character, with a clear change in pace after the chimney, where the path becomes more distinctly a hiking trail.

Useful Notes

The presence of snow, even late in the season, radically alters the difficulty of the route, making it suitable only for experienced, properly equipped hikers due to the exposure. The descent via the normal route, with its unroped downclimbing sections, requires particular attention and competence. The terrain's morphology, with slabs and chimneys, can become treacherous in icy or damp conditions.

The Ferrata Ricci can be incorporated into a larger loop route by linking it with the nearby Ferrata Danesi and Ferrata Ventricini on Corno Piccolo, descending from the Sella dei Due Corni in the opposite direction from Rifugio Franchetti. Given the considerable length, an overnight stay at the refuge is recommended for this loop. From the Sella dei Due Corni, it is also possible to take the Ferrata Brizio to reach the southern side of the massif, connecting to routes such as the Bivacco Bafile or the Sentiero del Centenario. These combinations transform the ascent into a multi-day mountaineering experience, exploring the complex ridge-and-ledge structure of the massif.