Ferrata dei Ginepri (ex Brizio)

Overview

The Ferrata dei Ginepri, formerly known as the Ferrata Brizio, serves as a transverse link between the two sides of Corno Grande in the Gran Sasso d'Italia massif. This mid-slope itinerary, rated moderate difficulty, combines equipped sections with free climbing passages, featuring notably exposed and dynamic sequences. Its primary function is to offer an alternative route to the normal summit ascents, making it strategic for traverses or as a variation in more complex alpine circuits.

The route unfolds mainly across ledges and gullies carved into the principal dolomite, offering a discontinuous rhythm with significant ups and downs. Its character is distinctly panoramic and connective rather than purely vertical ascent, though it demands attention due to constant exposure.

Approach

The starting point is Campo Imperatore, on the Abruzzo plateau in the province of L'Aquila. To reach it from Rome or Teramo, take the A24 motorway to the Assergi exit, then follow the SS17bis toward Fonte Cerreto and continue to the Campo Imperatore parking area. From Pescara, take the A25 to Popoli, then the SS17 toward L'Aquila and Assergi. A convenient option is to leave your vehicle at Fonte Cerreto and take the cable car (about 7 minutes) up to Campo Imperatore, being sure to check operating hours and days in advance.

From Campo Imperatore, take the well-traveled trail 101, which climbs at a steady gradient to the Sella di Monte Aquila (2423 m), ignoring any side deviations. Upon reaching the saddle, the view opens toward the northern side; keep left following trail 103 heading north, ignoring trail 104 that branches right toward the Sella del Corno Grande. Continuing, you pass a junction (left to Rifugio Garibaldi) and proceed mid-slope along the southern walls of Corno Grande on an airy but well-marked path. The approach ends at the Sella del Brecciaio (2506 m), a debris-filled notch marking the start of the ferrata, reachable in about 1 hour and 15 minutes from Campo Imperatore.

This approach section offers a classic approach experience, with a sustained and steady pace that physically prepares you for the effort ahead.

Via Ferrata

The Ferrata dei Ginepri has a distinctive morphology, characterized by a significant initial loss of elevation followed by a climb to gain the northern side of Corno Grande.

Begin by following the steel cable that descends diagonally to the left on a sloping ramp of compact rock, then enters a gully rich in natural holds. Descend to a narrow ledge that connects to a spur, which you round to continue on a diagonal ledge to the first metal ladder. After crossing it, traverse a wide ledge leading to the second and longer ladder, which you descend in strong exposure over the void of Val Maone. A short connecting traverse to the left leads to a final metal ladder. These equipped descents, though technically simple, are highly exposed and thrilling, requiring control and confident movement.

At the bottom of the ladders, you typically encounter a perennial snowfield nestled in a steep gully, which demands particular attention, especially early in the season when it may be icy, making crampons almost essential. Options include crossing it directly, bypassing it by climbing a couple of free climbing passages between snow and rock (Grade I), or descending over scree, crossing lower down, and climbing back up the opposite side. The choice is subjective and should be based on current conditions, significantly affecting the technical character of the passage.

Once past the snowfield, which marks the lowest point of the route, the ascent phase begins. Tackle a rocky spur with excellent holds in enjoyable climbing (Grade I-II), then continue along a ledge and a short descending section. This is followed by a calmer stretch, free of technical difficulties, that climbs diagonally across the wall on often fractured rock, up to a slightly ascending traverse. The final equipped sections, more continuous, lead to the end of the steel cables. The time to complete the ferrata is about 1 hour and 15 minutes from the Sella del Brecciaio.

The rhythm of the itinerary is thus discontinuous: a first part of technical and exposed descent, a central section conditioned by the presence of the snowfield, and a final phase of more physical ascent on generally excellent rock.

Descent

The shortest descent, avoiding a return via the ferrata, involves continuing upward toward the Sella dei Due Corni (2547 m). From the saddle, keeping right, follow the white-red trail markers in a steep climb over mixed terrain, tackling a couple of Grade I free climbing passages to reach the Passo del Cannone (2679 m), a spectacular panoramic balcony overlooking the Teramo side.

From the pass, continue right on trail 103 heading southwest for about ten minutes along an airy ridge, until you meet the junction with trail marker 154 for the Via Normale to Corno Grande (2912 m). The summit climb, taking about 1 hour round trip, is optional and not included in the times of this report.

At the junction, ignore the left deviation for the summit and stay on trail 103, beginning a decisive descent on a rocky path. At the next intersection, ignore the left trail 154A of the Cresta Ovest and continue descending, with some switchbacks, until you return to the Sella del Brecciaio. This descent loop, completing the circuit of the southwest sector of Corno Grande, takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the end of the ferrata.

From here, retracing the approach trail in reverse, you return to Campo Imperatore in about 40 minutes. The total time for the excursion is about 5 hours and 30 minutes, potentially extended by a stop at Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi or Rifugio Garibaldi.

The descent completes a loop itinerary, offering varied progression: from alpine passages at Passo del Cannone to faster hiking trail sections, with prolonged but not extreme physical effort.

Useful Notes

The route's equipment was renovated in 2018, but a winter avalanche damaged one of the two ladders. As of now, the ferrata is not officially open, though the cables are in good condition and the ladder damage is not considered critical for experts. Given its northern exposure, early in the season there is a high probability of finding a substantial snowfield, making crampons necessary. The itinerary is particularly useful for traverses or as a return route on long circuits involving the Gran Sasso peaks, leveraging its transverse connecting character.

In 2023, the CAI decided to change the name of the route from Ferrata Brizio to Ferrata dei Ginepri. The previous dedication to Guido Brizio, an alpinist and former president of the CAI of Rome, was revoked due to his directives in the 1930s that excluded non-Aryan members from the association. The ferrata, built in the 1950s to facilitate access to Corno Piccolo from the L'Aquila side, thus adopted the new toponym, inspired by the typical vegetation of the massif's lower elevations.

The environment is typically dolomitic, with solid but occasionally friable rock, and exposure is a constant that characterizes the entire experience, making it more suitable for experienced hikers who are free of vertigo.