Ferrata al Medale

Overview

The Ferrata del Gruppo Alpini al Corno del Medale is a demanding route that requires solid technical and physical preparation. It unfolds through vertical progressions on compact slabs, with long climbing sections and marked exposure. The first half of the route is particularly severe, with smooth slabs and continuous passages on equipped walls, which is why it is not recommended for inexperienced hikers or those not in excellent physical condition. The route develops in a low-altitude environment where the limestone rock can heat up quickly in summer, making it essential to carry water supplies as there are no springs. Its sun exposure makes it an interesting objective even for winter ascents, offering a rewarding adventure for those seeking a challenging via ferrata in the Lecco area.

Approach

The starting point is in the hamlet of Rancio Alto, above Lecco. From Lecco, follow the road toward Ballabio until you reach a well-visible double hairpin turn. At the second hairpin, turn left onto Via Quarto, which continues straight. After about two hundred meters, on the right, you'll spot a steep asphalted lane with an open white barrier. Drive up this lane, turn left at the first hairpin, and at a fork, keep right uphill. In a few minutes you'll reach a barrier where you can park. From here, access to the Ferrata del Corno di Medale is well signposted.

The approach continues by climbing the cement road to a hairpin, where you leave the paved surface and continue straight following the signs. The trail runs alongside large rockfall nets and leads to a fork: ignore the CAI 52 trail and take the steep CAI 58 trail to the left through the woods, heading toward the via ferrata. Markings are frequent. During the ascent you'll encounter two rockfall nets that must be bypassed with a wide detour, always staying on the main trail until you exit the woods. The route then develops on a mid-slope path among boulders, marked by red blazes, which leads in about forty minutes to the start of the ferrata.

Via Ferrata

The entrance to the Ferrata del Medale is representative of the entire ascent: you immediately tackle a beautiful vertical wall equipped with a steel cable. The limestone rock, smooth but rich in natural holds, demands technical and physical effort from the very start. The progression is continuous and decisive, with a rapid gain in altitude on open walls that offer marked exposure. After a short traverse to the right, you resume climbing on a vertical wall, angling to the right. Once this section is finished, a strenuous diagonal ascent to the left begins.

Here you reach one of the most spectacular and challenging passages of the entire route: an exposed traverse to the right allows you to round a corner, aided by some stirrups. Before tackling it, you can rest on a small ledge. After passing the corner, the route steepens vertically on a slab, where you climb with great exposure using the available stirrups. Reaching another small ledge, you set off again with a diagonal traverse to the right that climbs another corner, followed by a long vertical wall. In this section, you climb first to the left, then to the right, with the cable on your left and a chain on your right. Midway up the slab, a small ledge with a Madonna carved into the rock offers another rest stop.

The route continues by tackling a difficult leaning dihedral, where proper use of the stirrups on the right side is crucial. After climbing the dihedral, a traverse to the right rounds another exposed corner. From here onward, the ascent alternates between rocky steps and vertical slabs with stirrups and short traverses, offering no respite. The pace is sustained and physically demanding, with progression using ledges and corners on a predominantly vertical wall. After about an hour and a quarter from the start (two hours total), the hardest section concludes, and you arrive at a flatter area, ideal for a well-deserved panoramic break before the second part.

The second section of the Ferrata al Corno del Medale is decidedly less vertical and exposed. It begins with a series of sloping rock steps, you overcome a couple of small vertical walls aided by good artificial holds, and continue the ascent, now more relaxed, climbing more small walls and a long sequence of rocky steps. Gradually you reach the ridge trail, partially equipped, which leads in about two hours from the start (two hours and forty-five minutes total) to the summit cross.

Descent

The standard return route uses the Sentiero Attrezzato del Medale. From the summit cross, proceed north for five minutes along the track toward Coltiglione, until you reach a small saddle with a signpost. Here, turn right onto a steep trail that descends into the woods. The path is steep and in some sections slippery, so trekking poles are recommended. This equipped trail leads directly back to the hamlet of Rancio Alto and the initial parking area in about an hour from the summit, for a total hike time of about three hours and forty-five minutes.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata del Gruppo Alpini al Corno del Medale is a very demanding route, especially in the first half, characterized by constant verticality and exposure. To tackle it well, it is essential to take the time to search for natural holds, which are often present even if not immediately obvious. The physical effort is considerable, and given the low altitude, the heat can be intense in the summer months.

After being closed for several years for maintenance work, the route was reopened in March 2022. Before the recent restoration, the main protection consisted of a chain, typical of many Lecco-area ferratas, which required more effort to pull on compared to the current steel cable. For those wishing to extend the excursion, from the summit it is possible to continue toward Monte Castiglione via the Sentiero Attrezzato GER or toward Monte San Martino, from which other equipped trails branch off, such as those of the Vergella, Silvia, or Pizzetti. In case of a quick return via the described path, and depending on your remaining energy, you can combine other moderate ferratas in the area, such as the Ferrata della Galleria di Morcate or the Ferrata Gamma 1.