Ferrata del Corno Rat

Overview

The Ferrata del 30° OSA al Corno Rat is a demanding, technical itinerary on the cliffs above Valmadrera, near Lecco. Strong exposure, athletic moves and compact but often polished rock make it particularly suited to walkers with climbing experience and excellent fitness.

The ferrata can be combined with the equipped trail towards Corno Orientale to form a continuous, complete itinerary.

Note: the ferrata was completely refurbished in 2021, with numerous additional fixed aids that reduced its technical difficulty compared with the original line. The difficulty assessments refer to the route before refurbishment.

Approach

The starting point is in the Belvedere district of Valmadrera. On reaching the locality, continue to the start of a road closed to traffic and park in the available spaces. The approach begins here.

Follow the cobbled road uphill towards Belvedere, with the limestone cliffs of Corno Rat clearly visible above. The road becomes a dirt track and passes farms before reaching a signposted junction. Turn right, following signs for the OSA equipped itinerary. Ford a stream, keep left at the next junction and climb steeply through the woods to the start of the ferrata, about 50 minutes from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

The ferrata begins with an inclined slab offering few holds. Good balance and controlled movement are important here to avoid pulling excessively on the chain. A vertical section on solid rock, with some metal steps, leads to an exposed arête that requires care. Beyond it, the cable and chain come together in a narrow gully containing one of the route's most strenuous passages. This first sector, known as Sasso OSA, has historically been the hardest part of the itinerary.

A short path leads to the second wall, initially climbed diagonally using good natural footholds. A long vertical wall follows, harder than it appears, ending at a distinctive small viewpoint overlooking Lecco and Resegone. From here, negotiate a short, technically delicate bridging move that can be awkward for those unfamiliar with climbing.

The ascent continues over alternating vertical walls, chimneys with good holds and more polished sections. Some moves require pulling to overcome small projections. After a less steep, easier slab, reach the final vertical wall, which is more sustained but has better holds. Above it, arrive at the summit of Corno Rat, about 1 h 15 min from the start of the ferrata.

From the summit, return directly to the valley on the path towards San Tommaso–Valmadrera, or continue towards Corno Orientale on an equipped itinerary with exposed sections and easy rocky steps. Its summit is about 1 additional hour away.

Descent

From Corno Orientale, descend the marked path to an important junction between Corno Centrale and Corno Orientale. Follow signs for San Tommaso and Valmadrera to rejoin the approach and return to the parking area. The return takes about 1 hour, giving a total outing time of about 4 hours including Corno Orientale.

Useful Notes

The Corno Rat ferrata can feel very different depending on your climbing skills. Experienced climbers can move more smoothly on many sections, reducing their reliance on pulling the chain and making the ascent more technical than athletic. Without those skills, progress is more strenuous and requires considerable endurance. The rock can be smooth or slippery in places. Where both a steel cable and a chain are present, the cable is the preferred attachment point, with the chain used only to assist movement.

History

The route is also known as the Ferrata del Trentennale OSA, referring to the Organizzazione Sportiva Alpinisti of Valmadrera, founded in 1951. OSA has historically promoted mountaineering and hiking in the Lecco area and is also associated with a well-known climbing route on the Moregallo ridge, characterised by moderate difficulties and enjoyable climbing.