Ferrata Cassiopea

Overview

The Cassiopea via ferrata is a demanding route that climbs the Torrione Comici in the heart of the Friulian Dolomites. The ascent is distinguished by a technical, vertical, and highly exposed climb, followed by an equally challenging equipped descent that does not entirely retrace the upward path. Weather assessment is critical: being caught on the summit by an approaching storm would make retreat along the exposed sections extremely hazardous, given their airy nature and the difficulty of reversing direction.

Approach

The route begins at Forni di Sopra (UD), reachable via the SS52 Carnica road. After passing the town hall, take the one-way street heading south, cross the bridge over the Tagliamento River, and park in the large marked lot (880 m). From here, clear trail markers lead into the woods, joining a forest road closed to traffic (trail marker 362). This path climbs at a moderate gradient up the Val di Suola, offering progressive views of the surrounding walls, until reaching the Rifugio Flaiban Pacherini (1587 m) in about 1 hour and 45 minutes. The environment is classic Dolomitic, with sparse forests giving way to debris cones and wide scree slopes.

Leaving the refuge, follow the signs to cross the valley. Ignore the junction to the right for Forcella Fantulina and continue left on a steep ascent toward the Passo del Mus (2063 m). After a few minutes, you encounter another junction: leave trail 263 to the left for the Passo di Suola and keep right (trail marker 262) heading toward the Passo del Mus. Once at the pass, which separates the Val di Suola from the Val di Guerra, locate the sign for the Ferrata Cassiopea and the Torrione Comici, already clearly visible for its compact mass. Follow the track using some red paint marks on the rock, paying attention to the unstable ground and the possible presence of a residual snowfield, until you reach the start of the via ferrata (about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the refuge; 3 hours and 30 minutes total from the parking lot). The final stretch crosses moraines and debris, with the torrione dominating the landscape with its vertical walls.

Via Ferrata

The ascent of the Torrione Comici is a decidedly technical and exposed climb, developing on solid but often smooth rock, offering a continuous and sustained pace. The combined ascent and descent of the torrione takes about 1 hour and 15-30 minutes. The via ferrata begins with a horizontal traverse to the right that leads under a rock roof, which is overcome by moving left. You then reach a ridge that is climbed with increasing exposure. This first vertical section is well-equipped and leads to a junction: the cable to the right is the descent route, while you continue left for the ascent.

Thus begins the most challenging section, characterized by a succession of vertical passages on smooth slabs and airy traverses. A diagonal traverse to the left precedes a vertical stretch on compact rock, followed by another traverse. You are now in a highly exposed position and face an adrenaline-pumping vertical wall, aided by some metal pegs. You turn decisively left for an airy traverse that leads to an exposed ridge, which you go around. Climb a few meters in strong exposure to a pulpit where a brief rest is possible. The route continues with sustained difficulty to the right, with short traverses alternating with vertical walls, until you again intersect the descent route. The environment is purely vertical, with few natural holds, requiring a methodical and focused approach.

In the final section, while the descent cable drops from left to right along a ledge, you continue vertically following the markers. Climb a narrow gully with the cable zigzagging-a less demanding stretch than the previous ones-until reaching the summit of the Torrione Comici (2260 m) in about 45 minutes from the start (4 hours and 15 minutes total). The panorama spans the Val Suola, Forni Alti, and the Friulian Dolomites. The route is predominantly vertical, with a technical character that favors precision of movement over brute strength.

The descent is an integral and demanding part of the equipped route, presenting a more fragmented rhythm and requiring great attention to finding the passages. Head east along an equipped crest section on the eastern side of the torrione, until a narrow descending ledge leads to the last junction encountered on the ascent. Ignore the vertical cable and proceed downward to the right along the ledge, taking extreme care not to dislodge stones that could fall on any climbers below. Following the red marks, you reach the western side and a first vertical section. The descent is vertical, with few artificial holds, requiring careful study of each move. With caution, descend to a pulpit where you can rest comfortably. The route continues exposed and vertical until a sign reading "Uscita" (Exit), indicating the proximity of the junction with the ascent equipment. Descend the ridge and ledge traveled at the beginning, returning to the start in about 30 minutes from the summit (1 hour and 15 minutes total for the torrione; 4 hours and 45 minutes total from the start). The descent is a technical experience in its own right, often more psychologically demanding than the ascent due to the constant exposure and direct view into the void.

Descent

To complete the loop, return to the Passo del Mus and follow the signs for the Forcella dell'Inferno on trail 369. Reach the Forcella Fantolina Alta (2108 m), and after a final glance at the Torrione Comici, continue to the nearby Forcella dell'Inferno (2175 m, about 1 hour and 15 minutes from the end of the via ferrata). Continue on trail 369 to the Forcella Val Brica (2088 m). With ups and downs, pay attention to the markers, keeping right at a junction to take trail 367 toward the Forcella del Lavinal (1960 m). From here begins the long and steep descent toward Forni di Sopra: the final stretch is steep, exposed, and with a surface that is slippery in places, requiring a steady step. At a last junction, keep right on trail 371, which along the right orographic bank of the Tagliamento leads back to the parking lot in about 6 hours from the end of the via ferrata, for a total of about 11 hours. The return is physically draining, with a route that alternates panoramic crest sections with steep debris-filled gullies, underscoring the complete and demanding nature of the entire day.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Cassiopea is a difficult and technical ascent, suitable for experienced and fit hikers. For sections on rock with few holds, the use of climbing shoes may be advisable to ensure greater precision and grip. The route requires constant concentration both on the ascent and descent and is characterized by a long approach, a challenging descent from the torrione, and an equally strenuous return. Given the exposure and difficulty of some passages, good physical and technical preparation is essential, along with careful assessment of weather conditions. The route climbs the Torrione Comici, so named after the first ascent by Emilio Comici in 1936 via a Grade V and VI route on the east face. The environment is severe, and the experience demands a respectful approach to the mountain and one's own abilities.