Ferrata Adventure Climb

Overview

The Ferrata Adventure Climb on Clap Varmost is a modern, athletic and extremely exposed itinerary above Forni di Sopra, in the province of Udine. Built in the French style with extensive metal aids, it has two distinct sections: a first part of medium difficulty and a second that is considerably harder, more physical and more spectacular.

Approach

The starting point is the upper station of the Varmost cable car from Forni di Sopra, on the Strada Statale 52 Carnica. Park near the lower station in the village and take the cable car to the starting elevation.

If the cable car is not operating, walk up from Forni di Sopra along Via Chianeit. Continue to the end of the tarmac and take trail 207 to the upper station.

Clap Varmost and its vertical face are immediately visible from the upper station. Follow the signs, descending slightly below the station, and take a woodland path to the start of the ferrata, about 15 minutes away.

Via Ferrata

The itinerary begins with a short descent along a ledge to the entrance of a rock cleft, crossed on a wooden footbridge. Leaving the cleft, climb diagonally over rocky steps to a vertical wall with plentiful fixed aids. This leads to an inclined ladder used to cross a deep gorge.

Beyond the ladder, climb a very exposed spur to a suspension bridge across the gorge and onto the main face of Clap Varmost. A long, well-equipped traverse to the left leads to a small terrace, marking the end of the initial part of the ferrata.

The difficulty increases substantially from here. A first overhanging roof is strenuous and sustained, followed by a very exposed vertical wall. A further traverse leads to the crux: a second, even more athletic roof near an arête suspended above the drop. Beyond it, the route continues through corners and airy traverses, still with abundant fixed aids and constant exposure.

The final section is less demanding, alternating rocky steps and equipped path sections over mixed terrain to the end of the ferrata. A short wooden footbridge precedes the summit cross on Clap Varmost, about 1 h 15 min from the start.

Descent

From the summit, follow the track back towards the lifts. Return to the upper cable-car station or descend on paths and ski pistes past an artificial reservoir to the starting point. The return takes about 40 minutes.

Useful Notes

Adventure Climb is a distinctly athletic route for those who enjoy modern, physical ferratas. Progress relies almost entirely on metal steps and rungs, with little opportunity to climb on natural holds. Exposure is constant and pronounced. On the overhangs, the cable is not always usable for pulling, making correct use of the steps essential. A sling or quickdraw may be useful for rest stops. The route is well equipped but does not suit those looking for a style based more on natural rock climbing.