Overview
The Deanna Orlandini Via Ferrata is a sustained and demanding route, particularly prized for its morphological variety and low elevation, which allows it to be enjoyed for many months of the year. However, this accessibility should not be misleading: the route alternates between athletic sections and technical, extremely exposed passages, requiring solid physical fitness and good familiarity with the cables. Its progression across ridges, slabs, and gullies defines a composite character, where exposure is constant and the climbing is rarely monotonous.
Approach
The route begins at Crocefieschi, in the province of Genoa, reachable from the Busalla exit on the A7 motorway. It is advisable to park in a clearing on the left, about fifty meters after a gas station along the descending road.
From the parking area, briefly head back up toward the gas station; just below, a brown signpost indicates "Reopasso." Following it, you cross the village and continue north. At the first junction, ignore the right-hand deviation for Monte Cavallo, staying on the paved road where the first yellow squares of the trail markings appear. The climb leads to the chapel of Madonna della Guardia, then continues toward the Rocche del Reopasso. You finally reach a saddle between Monte Castello and Anchise, where a notice board marks the itinerary: this is the ideal spot to put on your harness. Leaving the main trail (which will be used for the return), turn right and climb steeply, following orange markings. Upon reaching another saddle, the start of the Deanna Orlandini Via Ferrata lies to the left, near a rocky spur. The approach time from the parking area is about 30 minutes.
Via Ferrata
The equipped itinerary is divided into four distinct sectors, each with its own technical and environmental identity.
The first sector, "Grillo," begins by circling the spur to the left with a short traverse that leads into a recess. This quickly brings you to an equipped gully, a fissure to be climbed using opposition, requiring a minimum of climbing technique. Progression is aided by a double cable: the lower one for self-belaying, the upper one as a handhold. The rock, of a conglomerate type, offers excellent natural holds, but the exposure increases noticeably as you ascend, moving from the left side to the right side of the gully. On the right side, you face about four athletic meters before exiting the recess-one of the most challenging passages on the route. Emerging onto the ridge (about 25 minutes from the start), after a few easy steps you can choose to continue or, via a convenient trail, return to the start. Continuing, you descend to the left following the cable toward the second sector.
The second section, "Biurca Sud," is reached via a short trail. It presents itself as a highly inclined rock slab, pleasant to climb thanks to excellent rock rich in holds. Upon reaching an equipped ledge to the right, you encounter a fork: you can follow the ledge to the end of the section (marked by orange blazes up to a bivouac) or tackle the direct variant on the NE face of the Biurca. This latter option includes a vertical wall without stirrups, with overhanging sections. You initially climb diagonally to the right, very exposed, then continue vertically with a couple of overhanging moves, concluding with a demanding horizontal traverse to the left. The climb on holdy, highly exposed rock leads to the summit ridge of the southern peak of the Biurca, from which you can glimpse the bivouac on the opposite side. Descending toward the saddle that separates the two peaks, you can deviate right for a few meters to reach the bivouac. To continue, return to the saddle and ascend the northern peak of the Biurca, then descend again following the orange markings. The time for this sector is about 1 hour from the end of the first.
The third sector begins by following a red arrow during the descent from the Biurca. You traverse some easy ledges and walls that are not technically difficult. The last part of the section features a descending traverse of about ten meters, moderately challenging. Upon reaching a fork, you can choose to bypass a suspension bridge to reach the base of a vertical pillar, or take the "monkey bridge" (made of three ropes) that leads directly to the base of the same pillar. This sector takes about 30 minutes from the end of the previous one.
The fourth and final sector, "Carrega do Diao," is probably the most difficult and certainly the most vertical of the entire Deanna Orlandini Via Ferrata. You ascend the vertical pillar, which alternates sections of rock with good holds with overhanging sections, very demanding on the arms. The overhanging section is clearly visible from the base. It is strongly recommended to look for footholds for your legs, avoiding excessive pulling on the cable. Pay attention to the summit roof, which forces you to move in an "S" shape to avoid losing balance. Once past this passage, you briefly continue along a small ridge to tackle a second rise, less demanding than the previous one. Once climbed, the via ferrata is finished. This last sector takes about 30 minutes, for a total time on the ferrata of about 2 hours and 30 minutes (3 hours total from the start of the hike).
Descent
At the end of the ferrata, it is advisable not to remove your harness immediately. You descend along an equipped channel on the Carrega, over sloping rocks. Then follow a flat trail through the woods to a saddle with a junction. Here, take the left-hand trail, which descends steeply along the western slope of the Carrega. Reaching the ridge, you arrive at the Biurca Nord, already traversed on the ascent. Following the yellow markings (empty square) and some equipped sections, you take the normal route that descends the west ridge and then along the south face of the Biurca. Attention: when descending from the Biurca, it is essential to follow the left-hand trail (empty yellow squares) and not the right-hand one (solid yellow squares). Continue along an exposed ledge protected by a handrail cable until you reach a picnic area. From here, retrace the approach trail back toward Crocefieschi. The descent takes about 1 hour from the end of the ferrata, for a total of 4 hours of hiking. It is important to carefully follow the yellow or orange trail markers.
Useful Notes
The conglomerate rock makes the ferrata very climbable. In many sections, it is possible to proceed by climbing, using the cable purely for protection. This should not, however, lead you to underestimate the route, which remains difficult despite its low elevation. The division into four sectors with different characteristics contributes to the pleasantness of the route. A quickdraw can be very useful for resting on a couple of overhanging sections, especially if you are not in peak athletic condition. A peculiar feature of the ferrata is the possibility of bypassing each individual sector via trails marked in orange.
The area is affected by wild boar hunting in the months of September, October, November, and December, on Wednesdays and Sundays. In the presence of specific signs, it is advisable, if possible, to avoid the hike on these days.
The ferrata at the Rocche del Reopasso was built in 1978 by the Gruppo Escursionistico Busallese and dedicated to Deanna Orlandini, a Genoese mountaineer. Originally, it ended on the Biurca; later, the section on the south ridge of the Cadrega del Diavolo was equipped.
Located in the Ligurian Apennines, the Deanna Orlandini Via Ferrata has no other ferratas in the immediate vicinity. The ferratas near the Passo dello Zovallo (Ferrata Mazzocchi and Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari) or the Ferrata degli Artisti are about a two-hour drive away.
