Ferrata Mazzocchi

Overview

The Ferrata Mazzocchi offers a highly rewarding panoramic route, set in the border area between the provinces of Piacenza and Genoa, on the Monte Nero massif. The climb is predominantly moderate in difficulty, punctuated by a single, more technical passage that serves as its highlight. The landscape is characterized by extensive stands of mountain pines, which blanket the slopes and give the mountainside a distinctly alpine feel.

Approach

The route begins at the Passo dello Zavallo (1405 m), accessible from both Piacenza and Chiavari via the A12 motorway. From the pass, take trail 001 toward Lago Nero, following the main direction and ignoring any subsequent turnoffs, such as the one for Rifugio Lago Nero. Continue until you reach the glacial basin at 1541 meters, a walk of about 50 minutes. After skirting the northern shore of the lake, leave trail 001 and follow trail 011 toward Fontana Gelata. Once you reach this clearing, take trail 007 in the direction of Bivacco Sacchi. After crossing a small stream, a steep climb leads to the hollow of Dente delle Ali, where the Bivacco Sacchi stands-a self-managed shelter with 7 beds. Following the signs, you'll reach the start of the via ferrata in just 5 minutes. The total approach time from the parking area is about 1 hour and 45 minutes.

The approach follows well-marked trails, offering a steady, continuous progression through pastures and sparse woods. The pace is brisk but without excessive gradients, allowing for a gradual warm-up before the technical challenge.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route begins with a diagonal traverse to the left on solid rock, of modest difficulty. After overcoming a first ramp and a short, steeper section, you face an exposed traverse protected by cable and chain, which requires a sure foot. Once past the edge, you encounter the first ladder, made of rungs and chain: it is essential to check the stability of every hold while climbing. After the ladder, a ledge leads to a rocky outcrop; you can bypass it to the left or tackle it directly up a slightly overhanging wall using some stirrups.

The route continues along a wide ledge, where a escape route is marked on the left. You then overcome a sloping slab with few natural holds to round a highly exposed edge: this is the crux passage of the entire via ferrata, where you must rely completely on the cable and the grip of your soles. You then reach a chimney that offers two options: climb it to the right to reach a ladder, or take the left side, ascend the chimney wall, and then tackle an exposed traverse with no holds that converges at the same ladder.

Once the ladder is completed, you arrive at a small terrace. Following a ledge, you reach the last, long ladder. After finishing this, a final three-meter step leads to the plateau of Groppo delle Ali at 1689 meters. The view of Monte Nero, Monte Bue, and Ragola is a well-deserved reward. The time to complete the via ferrata is about 1 hour from the start, for a total of 2 hours and 45 minutes from the parking area.

The via ferrata unfolds mainly on slabs and chimneys of compact rock, with a predominantly vertical progression interspersed with short horizontal resting sections. The pace is uneven, characterized by intense technical sequences separated by ledges that allow for a pause. Exposure is marked, especially on the crux traverse and in the chimney, where the cable's protection is essential.

Descent

From the summit, you have several options for the return. The first is to return to Bivacco Sacchi via the trail marked in white and red, retracing the approach route (about 1h 30' of descent, for a total of 4h 15'). A more varied alternative is to head toward Monte Bue (1771 m) with a sustained climb through woods and along a mule track. From the summit, join trail 001 to Sella Costazza, then take trail 003 toward Monte Nero (1752 m). This section includes an interesting ridge and the ascent of a steep, equipped gully. From the top of Monte Nero, descend along the northeast ridge, ignoring any turnoffs, until you reconnect with trail 001 near Passo dello Zavallo. This variant takes about 1 hour from the end of the via ferrata to Monte Nero, for a total of about 4 hours and 45 minutes from the start of the hike.

The direct descent to the bivouac is quick and straightforward, while the summit variant turns the itinerary into an alpine loop of a hiking nature, with added physical effort but amply rewarded by the 360-degree panorama along the main ridge.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Mazzocchi is an interesting and not overly long route, ideal for training ahead of alpine endeavors or for a satisfying day out in the mid-season. Installed in 1979, it is named after a climber from the CAI of Piacenza who died in 1975. It can be combined into a larger loop with the Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari, creating a route of about 6 hours that makes the long drive needed to reach the area worthwhile. The landscape is characterized by the dense presence of mountain pines along the entire northern ascent slope, which take root on ledges and in rock fissures, shaping the scenery.

The character of the route is technical and panoramic, with physical effort concentrated in the vertical sequences. Its dominant position at the head of the valley ensures an immersive experience, far from noise and with a genuine sense of wilderness.