Ferrata delle Guide di Macugnaga

Overview

The Ferrata delle Guide di Macugnaga is a recently built equipped route set in the severe, panoramic environment of the Passo di Monte Moro, along the ridge of the Cresta di San Pietro. It's a short but concentrated itinerary, typically airy and developed along the crest line. While it doesn't demand advanced technical skill, it's marked by pronounced exposure and unfolds in a high alpine setting, consistently above 2900 meters in elevation.

Approach

The starting point is the upper station of the cable car that rises from Staffa, in the province of Verbania, to the Passo di Monte Moro. To reach Staffa, take the A26 motorway to Gravellona Toce, on the western shore of Lake Maggiore. Continue past Anzola d'Ossola and turn onto the regional road SR549, which climbs the Valle Anzasca to the village of Staffa, where you can park near the cable car facilities.

From the cable car's upper station, take a short walk down to the Rifugio Oberto Maroli. From the refuge, head toward the Cresta di San Pietro, following the obvious trail tracks that run at the base of the rock walls until you reach the equipped start. The approach takes about 30 minutes from the cable car station.

Via Ferrata

The route begins immediately with a vertical section, tackling a rock face well-equipped with a dense sequence of metal steps. This first sector, physical and continuous, quickly gains elevation. After this demanding climb, the ferrata bends to the right to follow the crest line. You'll encounter a short downclimbing passage, very exposed but simple to execute.

Next, you enter the characteristic ridge section, a series of short ups and downs over compact rock spurs and pulpits, the first of which features a slight overhang. This sector runs along a sharp ridge, offering a rhythmic, constantly airy experience. After this sequence, you reach the second part of the route. Here, you descend a few meters to arrive at a particularly airy and thrilling suspension bridge connecting two rocky spurs.

Once past the bridge, make a traverse to the right and then climb a short wall. Continue ascending along the cable, with an excellent supply of stirrups, until the climbing portion ends. Then begins the descent, also equipped but less demanding, which quickly leads to the end of the via ferrata. The ferrata itself takes about 1 hour from the start.

From the end of the equipped route, you can return to the cable car station with a 20-minute walk, for a total of about 2 hours.

An interesting alternative is to continue toward the Joderhorn, a rocky peak nearby. From the end of the ferrata, turn left following some cairns that mark the steep climb up to the summit ridge at 3036 meters, where you'll find a cross and the summit register. From here, retrace your steps to descend to the Passo di Monte Moro, crossing a short equipped section, and then to the cable car. This variant takes about 45 minutes from the Joderhorn.

Descent

From the end of the equipped route, a clear trail leads back to the upper station of the Passo di Monte Moro cable car in 20 minutes.

Useful Notes

This ridge ferrata offers an experience where the feeling of exposure is the defining element. The technical difficulties are modest, and the elevation gain, all concentrated in the first wall, is small. The route unfolds in a high mountain environment, near 3000 meters: it's essential to be properly equipped and to carefully assess weather conditions before starting.

The Ferrata delle Guide di Macugnaga can be combined with other ferratas in the area. About an hour and a quarter's drive from Staffa, at the Passo del Sempione, you'll find the Ferrata Gabi Simplon, a medium-length itinerary. Another option, more challenging and usually requiring an overnight stay in a refuge, is the Ferrata del Lago in Valle Antrona, which can be accessed with a roughly 2-hour climb to the Rifugio Andolla.