Ferrata Montevecchio

Overview

Opened in 2016, the Ferrata Montevecchio traces its route along a sharp, panoramic ridge. While it never reaches extreme difficulty, it is a varied, airy, and physically demanding itinerary that presupposes solid experience and adequate training. A unique technical feature is the return method: you must reverse the entire via ferrata, requiring several downclimbs on sections already ascended.

Approach

The route begins in Carcoforo, in Alta Valsesia (VC). After parking in the large central square of the village, set off along trail 113. The path initially follows a gentle gradient before progressively steepening, always well-marked, until reaching the Rifugio Massero (2082 m). Past the hut, continue climbing to a fork: take the left branch toward Colle della Bottiggia, ignoring the trail to the right. The path becomes less distinct but remains marked by cairns and trail signs; finally, ascend a steep, debris-filled gully to the rocky notch of the Colle della Bottiggia (2607 m), where the cable begins. The approach takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes. Caution: early in the season, snowfields may persist on the final stretch. There is an alternative ascent from Colle Vallè, which joins the main via ferrata near the anticima; however, this report describes the classic route from Colle della Bottiggia, considered more challenging.

Via Ferrata

From the col, the cable immediately attacks a vertical wall with a technical style, where holds are not always obvious. After this initial steep section, the route winds along the main ridge, offering a continuous alternation of short vertical pitches, airy traverses, and exposed ledges on both sides. The terrain is typical granite, with smooth slabs and solid spikes, and the route proceeds through a series of ups and downs that constantly modulate the effort. The vertical passages are always well-equipped with steel rungs, but exposure increases progressively and movements become more complex, requiring some creative footwork among climbs, short descents, and lateral moves, until reaching the anticima at 2777 meters. Here, the cable from Colle Vallè is visible, a useful option for the return.

From the anticima, continue over a succession of sloping steps, then tackle a short but non-trivial descent on compact rock. This brings you closer to the summit, overcoming a vertical wall and a crack in the rock, followed by the crux of the route: a very exposed chimney that demands good body management in tight quarters. After another short vertical section and a horizontal traverse, face a descent and finally the last meters of ridge leading to the metal cross of Pizzo Montevecchio (2789 m), reached in about 2 hours from the start (4h 45' total).

The via ferrata does not end at the summit. For the return, you must go back to the anticima by reversing the final section. At this point, you have two options:

1. Return along the entire route taken on the ascent (about 1h 30' from the summit).
2. Choose the recommended variant, which descends along the west ridge toward Colle del Vallè. This option, easier and less exposed than the direct route (but still not trivial), allows for a loop itinerary. From the anticima, spot a steel cable on the left; the descent has some vertical sections but is well-equipped. From Colle del Vallè, continue on a path marked with green paint along the Val Quarazza side (watch for some unstable sections) to return to Colle della Bottiggia (about 1h 30' from the summit).

Descent

From Colle della Bottiggia, descend the same approach trail back to Carcoforo, taking about 2 hours (for a total of roughly 8h 15' with the Colle Vallè return option).

Useful Notes

This relatively new via ferrata offers an excellent balance between safety, ensured by abundant equipment at critical points, and autonomy, leaving the climber to choose the best solution for tackling rock steps, chimneys, and fissures. The downclimbing sections on the return require particular attention, as reading the rock and managing the cable on descent are often more complex. The environment is wild and highly scenic, with a ridge overlooking deep valleys. Given the altitude and northern exposure, it is not uncommon to find icy sections or verglas, even outside of winter. The view of the nearby Monte Rosa massif is magnificent, but the area is often prone to cloud formations. The pace of the route is discontinuous, punctuated by short but intense technical bursts interspersed with more horizontal but exposed sections, demanding constant concentration.