Ferrata di Cimalegna

Overview

The Ferrata Detomasi, traced across the Cimalegna face above Alagna Valsesia, is a route of high technical difficulty and spectacular alpine scenery. It is a very challenging route in sections, with athletic sequences and sheer overhanging passages that demand excellent physical fitness and solid skills in vertical maneuvers. The descent is quite complex and, in some spots, the trail markings can be sparse, requiring careful navigation on the return route.

Approach

Access to the route begins at the former top station of the disused chairlift that once connected Pianalunga to Bocchette delle Pisse (2450 m). To reach Pianalunga, take the cable car from Alagna Valsesia, a town you can reach by driving up the Valsesia valley from Varallo, in the province of Vercelli. Since the lift to Bocchette delle Pisse is no longer operating, the final stretch of the approach-about 45 minutes-must be covered on foot, following the signposts. From the abandoned station, skirt the structures to the left and take the trail that leads to the start point, marked by an information board. The entire approach from the cable car's valley station takes about an hour of walking.

Via Ferrata

The route is divided into two main sections, distinguished by different colors.

Red Section: After the first few connecting meters and a short initial step, the via ferrata immediately reveals its challenging character. You face an overhanging section of about four meters across a rocky roof, where clipping the first carabiner requires an athletic move of strength and coordination. The progression unfolds on a compact, vertical wall typical of the local gneiss, demanding continuous effort. Once past this first section, you reach a more slabby face rich in natural holds. You descend a few meters to tackle a suspension bridge about twenty meters long, marked by notable instability; the support cables can obstruct your passage, forcing you to step over them carefully. Beyond the bridge, a traverse to the left and some vertical stretches lead to a key wall, to be solved diagonally to the right before a bold vertical ascent with another overhanging passage. After completing this technical sequence, you reach a ledge. The red section ends on a system of ledges and short vertical sections, offering a first panoramic breather. The experience is physically intense and technically varied, with a sustained pace and few moments of rest.

Blue Section: This part unfolds along the ridge, offering airy but generally less difficult passages, characterized by constant ups and downs that modulate the rhythm of the progression. The environment changes radically: you proceed along the dorsal line of Cimalegna, on more fractured rock with exposure on both sides. You cross a solid horizontal metal ladder that serves as a suspension bridge, more stable than the previous one. The progression continues upward, rewarding you with an exceptional panorama of the nearby 4,000-meter peaks and the surrounding valleys, with open views of Monte Rosa. The final challenge is a vertical finale of about fifty meters, on a compact wall that demands a last physical and mental effort. At the top of this wall, the via ferrata ends. The climbing time from the start is about two hours, for a total of three hours from the cable car's top station. The character of the blue section is more panoramic and endurance-based, while maintaining constant exposure.

Descent

From the summit (2800 m), proceed across the Cimalegna plateau following trail 205E. Intersect trail 205G to the left, which is best avoided as it is a service path used by guides or mountain rescue and leads to an intermediate cable car station that is not in service. Once you reach the Passo di Cimalegna, you have three options for the return:

1. (Recommended) Descend to the left toward the disused Rifugio Città di Vigevano (2871 m) on trail 205E, then return to Pianalunga via trail 205.
2. Continue along the ridge, or on alternative trails, to the Passo dei Salati, where you can use the ski lifts.
3. (Not recommended) Head to the right for the Passo del Diavolo (trail 210B), a rather challenging route that leads back to the start of the via ferrata at Bocchette delle Pisse.

For the descent, you need to allow at least one hour and thirty minutes from the end of the via ferrata. The descent takes place in a high-altitude environment, on trails that are sometimes uneven, requiring a good deal of residual attention after the technical effort of the via ferrata.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Detomasi is characterized by an athletic, overhanging start and the presence of a particularly unstable suspension bridge, elements that define its technical challenge and the need for specific preparation. The Rifugio Città di Vigevano and Rifugio Guglielmina, once support points along the route, are currently closed. The Cimalegna and Alagna Valsesia area is rich in other via ferratas of varying difficulty, such as the Ferrata Nito Staich, the Ferrata della Balma, the recently built Ferrata al Pizzo Montevecchio, and, further north, the Ferrata delle Guide di Macugnaga. The route offers a complete experience, combining technique, physicality, and constant panoramic engagement, making it one of the most significant via ferratas in the region.