Ferrata Formenton alla Tofana di Dentro

Overview

The Ferrata del Formenton is a connecting route between Tofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Dentro in the Ampezzane Dolomites. It is a relatively short itinerary with a huge scenic impact, unfolding entirely in a high-altitude environment and offering sweeping views over the Conca Ampezzana, the Fanes group, and the Sexten Dolomites. From a technical standpoint, it is considered the most approachable of the via ferratas in the Tofane massif, though the severe terrain and near-constant exposure demand proper preparation and a respectful approach. 2023 update: the extension toward Tofana Terza is currently closed due to a landslide under observation; only the connection between Tofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Dentro is passable, with the return along the same equipped route.

Approach

The most direct access is from the valley station of the Freccia nel Cielo cable car in Cortina d'Ampezzo. Two sections take you up to the slopes of the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (3190 m). To save on costs, you can park at Baita Piè Tofana, take the chairlift up to Col Druscè, and continue on foot to the top station. Well-trained hikers can opt to combine the Ferrata Formenton with the Ferrata Olivieri at Punta Anna and the Ferrata Aglio, starting from Baita Piè Tofana and climbing to Rifugio Pomedes. From the cable car's top station, an easy trail leads toward the summit of Tofana di Mezzo; just before the top, a marking on the rock on the right indicates the start of the via ferrata (about 10 minutes from the cable car arrival).

Via Ferrata

The route begins with a short equipped section of a few meters, after which you move onto the northwest side of Tofana di Mezzo. The view opens up onto the ridge to descend toward Forcella della Tofana. The descent section is steep and constantly exposed, unfolding as a sequence of long ledge walks, short vertical sections of modest difficulty, and horizontal traverses. The itinerary often runs just below the ridge line, with technically simple passages that nonetheless require concentration due to the airy environment. You reach the Forcella della Tofana at 3085 meters in about 30 minutes from the start. Here you encounter a junction: to the left, a gully branches off for a descent toward Rifugio Giussani (1 hour), while the main route continues climbing toward Tofana di Dentro.

From the forcella, after a short descent on the northeast side, the ascending phase begins. More challenging short vertical sections, sloping ramps, and ledge sections alternate. The climb unfolds for long stretches along an exposed ridge crest, well equipped with cables and good natural holds. Later, the route drops slightly onto the right (eastern) side of the ridge, crossing some unsecured trail sections that lack exposure. With the final fixed cables in sight, you reach without particular difficulty the small summit cross of Tofana di Dentro at 3238 meters. The total time from the start is about 1 hour and 15 minutes (1 hour and 30 minutes from the cable car's top station).

Descent

The return is made via a wide loop. You initially descend along the debris slope of the northeast ridge, steep but with a clear track and cairns. You reach the distinctive Bivacco degli Alpini at 2922 meters, a potential emergency shelter. Continuing the descent on the northeast side, caution is needed in some spots due to unstable debris. Upon reaching a saddle, you turn right (south-southeast direction) for a rather exposed and unsecured section, to be tackled with care.

Continuing down, you encounter a singular rock formation shaped like a natural doorway, which opens the view onto Rifugio Ra Vales. You then pass the ruins of World War I structures and shelters. The trail becomes less steep until a junction with trail 407: keeping right, you head toward Rifugio Ra Vales at 2470 meters, the endpoint of the hike. From here, you can use the cable car to return to the valley. The descent from the summit takes about 3 hours, for a total itinerary time of about 4 hours and 30 minutes.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Formenton is technically easy, with occasional passages of modest difficulty. The objective difficulty lies in the very high altitude (constantly above 3000 meters) and the continuous exposure, elements that can intimidate less experienced climbers. It is essential to undertake the itinerary only in stable weather conditions, also considering the length of the return. Early in the season, some sections of the descent trail may have residual snow or ice. For maps, detailed maps of the Cortina area and the Ampezzo Dolomites are recommended.

The itinerary can be combined with other via ferratas of the Tofane for more challenging traverses, such as the Ferrata Olivieri and the Ferrata Aglio. In the area around Rifugio Pomedes and Rifugio Ra Vales, other equipped routes also branch off, such as the Sentiero Attrezzato Olivieri, the Sentiero Astaldi, and the ferratas Ra Pegna and Ra Bujela. Toward Passo Falzarego, you'll find the Ferrata Tomaselli, the Ferrata Fusetti at Sass de Stria, the Ferrata at Col dei Bos, and the one at Averau.