Ferrata Bianchi al Cristallo

Overview

The Ferrata Marino Bianchi is a classic and spectacular route to the summit of Cristallo di Mezzo, starting from Passo delle Tre Croci. The closure of the historic Val de Stounies cable car has transformed the outing, making the approach and return longer and more physically demanding. The route winds along an articulated and exposed ridge, offering a full 360-degree panorama of the Zoldo, Ampezzane, Sesto, and Bellunesi Dolomites, which encircle the entire Cristallo massif.

Approach

The route begins at Passo delle Tre Croci, between Misurina and Cortina d'Ampezzo. From the parking area at the pass, you tackle the roughly 400-meter elevation gain on foot that leads to Rifugio Son Forca. Alternatively, you can take the chairlift that connects the main road to the refuge, but be sure to check the operating hours carefully. The pedestrian access follows the CAI trail 203 northwest, a route with a steady gradient that reaches Rifugio Son Forca at 2047 meters. The terrain changes dramatically beyond the refuge: you ascend a vast and tiring scree slope, orienting yourself by the poles of the disused cable car, up to Forcella Stounies at 2932 meters. The environment is severe, dominated by debris and rock walls. The entire approach takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the parking area, with a continuous and sustained pace that prepares you for the elevation challenge ahead.

Via Ferrata

Description in preparation.

Descent

From the summit cross of Cristallo di Mezzo, descend short rock steps and then take a left onto a red-marked trail. This path leads to a ledge that initially drops steeply, then climbs back up toward a notch. At this junction, you can choose to retrace the Ferrata Bianchi in descent or continue on the main trail. The latter option develops an alternative route along exposed ledges and steep gullies, with constant ups and downs, until it definitively rejoins the ascent route. From here, the descent retraces the approach itinerary back to the parking area. The descent time from the summit is about 3 hours, for a total of roughly 7 hours for the entire excursion. The pace is variable, with technical sections concentrated on the ledge traverses and long stretches of hiking over scree.

Useful Notes

At Forcella Staunies stands Rifugio Lorenzi, which, following the closure of the cable car, is currently unstaffed and offers only a self-service winter room. During the descent, it is essential to pay attention to the ledges, which are often subject to residual snow even late in the season. For maps, we recommend those dedicated to the Dolomites of Ampezzo and Sesto. The via ferrata is named after the Ampezzo mountain guide Marino Bianchi. Another famous route in the group is the Sentiero Attrezzato Dibona, but combining it with the Bianchi in a single day is no longer feasible without the cable car, now requiring an overnight stay in a bivouac.