Ferrata Maurizio all'Alben

Overview

The Ferrata Maurizio is a demanding and highly rewarding alpine route on the northern flank of Monte Croce, in the Monte Alben group of the Bergamo Prealps. The itinerary unfolds in two distinct phases: a long, physically strenuous equipped approach trail, followed by a vertical section that is distinctly athletic in nature. Despite the absence of extreme technical passages, the route is characterized by continuous exposure and demands excellent physical fitness, as well as a solid familiarity with high-altitude terrain.

Approach

The starting point is located at the parking lot for the ski lifts of the Conca dell'Alben, in the municipality of Oltre il Colle (BG). Once there, follow the signs for the ski lifts. From the parking lot, an information panel describes the route. Then, ascend the slope to the left of the ski lift, crossing an embankment until you reach a clearing where a sign indicates it is time to put on your via ferrata gear. Just beyond, the equipped trail proper begins. The estimated duration for this approach is about 20 minutes.

Via Ferrata

The route is divided into two main sections. The first is a steep and strenuous equipped trail, traced across a loose, unstable slope, which leads to the base of the rock wall. It begins by tackling a very steep gully, using the cable for support. The trail then continues along an exposed rocky ledge with a loose, gravelly surface, which brings you to the start of the vertical section.

The second, more athletic section begins with a diagonal ramp trending left over mixed ground of gravel and rock. Short stretches of trail and slabs alternate until you reach the first vertical wall. This wall features a horizontal traverse protected by a roof, followed by a vertical ascent. After a short diagonal section to the right, you encounter a fine, roughly ten-meter dihedral, excellently equipped with metal rungs. After climbing the dihedral and some small rock steps, you arrive at the base of a long, exposed vertical wall. The ascent, aided by numerous rungs, leads to a small terrace topped by a chimney, where the limestone rock offers good natural holds.

From this point, an equipped transfer trail, with some slightly descending sections, leads to the second series of vertical walls. You climb a new dihedral, which in one section tends to push you to the right; it can be useful to proceed with legs spread wide, using holds on the left. This is followed by a pleasant succession of slanted walls, ideal for climbing fluidly. The upper part of the route features an equipped trail over grassy and unstable terrain; you cross a notch in the rock and gain the summit ridge. The ridge is only partially equipped: you overcome several rock steps with ups and downs, until you reach a notch where the equipment ends and you join the normal route. The climbing time for the via ferrata is about 2 hours from the start, for a total of roughly 2 hours and 30 minutes from the parking lot.

Descent

From the end of the equipment, you have several options. The first is to continue to the right to reach the summit of Monte Croce in a few minutes. From here, you can continue along a ridge trail with Class I rock passages to the summit of Monte Alben (2019 m). Once you reach Passo Forca, you can descend to the left along the steep northern slope towards the Conca dell'Alben (watch for residual snow early in the season), for a total of about 4 hours from the start of the hike. Alternatively, you can continue to Monte Alben and return to Passo Forca for the northern descent, with a total duration of about 5 hours.

The second option is a direct return: from the junction with the normal route, descend to the left towards Forca and take the CAI trail 501 to the left. Once you reach the level of the Conca dell'Alben, you intercept a horizontal trail marked by a wooden sign that leads back to the starting point, for a total duration of about 3 hours and 45 minutes.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Maurizio, recently built and excellently equipped with a well-tensioned cable and thoughtfully placed rungs, is decidedly exposed but does not present high technical difficulties. It is advisable to climb fluidly through the first vertical section to conserve energy for the final demanding wall. In this section, a daisy chain to simulate a belay stance can be useful. The initial equipped trail is strenuous and on loose terrain. The return is long and, in some spots, slippery: a pair of telescopic trekking poles can be a great help. Early in the season, until early June, you may find snow in an unequipped gully on the first section; in this case, crampons and a length of rope for moving roped together are strongly recommended.