Ferrata Nito Staich

Overview

The Ferrata Nito Staich is an airy and physically demanding route that unfolds across the steep walls of Monte Tovo, towering over the Santuario di Oropa complex in the province of Biella. The itinerary alternates between vertical sections, highly exposed arêtes, and slightly overhanging passages, but the abundance and quality of the fixed anchors keep the overall difficulty at a moderate level. Its compact length makes it perfect for a half-day outing, easily combined with other equipped routes in the Biellese area.

Approach

The starting point is located in Oropa. From the town center, head toward Rosazza until you reach a wide hairpin turn, near which you can spot a ruined religious building; parking is possible by the roadside close to the hairpin. Access the trail by taking the dirt road that climbs beside the ruined structure. Follow the broad mule track heading toward the Rifugio Rosazza until you encounter a scree field. Here, the first specific signs for the via ferrata appear, indicating a distance of about 15 minutes. Ascend the scree field to the right, aiming for the rocky spur that hosts the start, using the red trail markers and signs for guidance. The start of the Ferrata Nito Staich can be reached in about 20 minutes from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route begins without delay with a vertical wall, allowing for a quick gain in elevation. The ascent runs alongside an arête, staying to its left, then continues with a short connecting section and an easy traverse. Next, you tackle a second wall, larger than the previous one, during which you can glimpse the old cable car pylon above. After overcoming this section, you cross a grassy stretch before facing a couple of more slabby rock faces, equipped with metal stirrups, that lead to the first concrete pylon of the disused cable car. This pylon is climbed vertically using the fixed stirrups, up to a short three-rope suspension bridge that connects the pylon to the rock face.

The route continues with a traverse to the right to round an arête, followed by a short climb up to a grassy ledge. A path leads to the base of an imposing vertical wall. The initial passage takes place in a dihedral, from which you exit to the right to overcome a small, slightly overhanging roof. The climb continues vertically, with progressively increasing exposure, until you need to cross the dihedral, moving to its left side. After a short step, you reach a grassy terrace, where you must momentarily unclip your carabiner from the cable to re-clip it a bit higher. From this stance, your gaze sweeps over the dome of the Santuario di Oropa.

You then tackle an arête with a slight overhang, ascending it toward the left in a highly exposed passage. After overcoming a short step, you resume the arête, shifting leftward, until you reach, beneath a pillar, a second three-rope suspension bridge. Once this bridge is crossed, you climb a few meters on metal rungs before embarking on a traverse to the left that skirts a rocky roof in strong exposure. This brings you to the left side of the arête, alongside the new cable car. After rounding the arête, you climb vertically with the aid of excellent metal stirrups until the end of the fixed equipment. The time to complete the via ferrata is about 1 hour and 20 minutes, for a total of 1 hour and 40 minutes including the approach.

Descent

Several options are available for the return. The most convenient involves taking the cable car to descend directly to Oropa. Considering the recommended parking, the preferable on-foot itinerary is as follows: from the end of the via ferrata, take the trail D32, marked with white-red blazes, on the opposite slope. Near a junction, keep left, following a broad mule track that leads back to the scree field of the approach. From here, retrace the initial trail to return to the parking area. This descent takes about 30 minutes, for a total of 2 hours and 10 minutes from the start of the hike.

At the end of the via ferrata, it is also possible to climb up to the upper cable car station, where the Rifugio Rosazza is located. To descend on foot from there, you must still return to the end of the via ferrata and follow the route described above. Another alternative to extend the outing is to ascend along the ridge of trail 14, which leads to the summit of Monte Tovo (2230 m).

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Nito Staich is an interesting, airy, and varied route that features strong exposure for much of its length. The difficulty is kept at a moderate level thanks to the abundance of fixed anchors, which would otherwise make the route far more challenging. The equipment is in excellent condition. Descending along the via ferrata is strictly prohibited. About two-thirds of the way up, on the left side, there is an escape route.

For careful planning, it is advisable to consult the website of the Provincia di Biella, which offers downloadable maps and GPS tracks of the local trail network. Due to its short duration, the via ferrata is ideally suited to be combined in a single day with other equipped itineraries in the Biellese, such as the Sentiero Attrezzato dell'Infernone, the Ferrata del Limbo, the Ferrata Ciao Miki, the Ferrata di Rosazza, or the Ferrata della Balma.