Ferrata Pursteinwand

Overview

The Pursteinwand Via Ferrata is a recently built athletic route that climbs a steep limestone slab on the eastern side of the Ahrntal Valley. Starting from Sand in Taufers, the itinerary offers a short but concentrated ascent, demanding both in technique and physical strength. The goal is not a classic summit, but a panoramic point that opens spectacularly over the basin below.

Approach

The route begins in the town of Sand in Taufers, in the Ahrntal Valley, easily accessible from Bruneck. Just before the town, near an industrial area, you will find a large parking lot by the last large shed. From here, the via ferrata wall is already clearly visible. Follow the signs for the via ferrata and the climbing gym, initially walking flat along the base of the wall. A marked deviation on the right leads to a sign warning of falling rocks. From this point, keep to the right side, ascending a debris slope to the start sign of the via ferrata. The approach is quick and takes about 15 minutes.

Via Ferrata

The itinerary begins beneath a long, sloping slab of dark rock. The first meters are vertical and often damp; they are overcome with the help of a couple of stirrups, before angling left. Immediately following is a difficult oblique traverse to the right, which introduces a dominant characteristic of the route: the rock is compact and polished, offering few natural holds, making the steel cable the main reference for progression. The climb continues vertically with some narrow stirrups, up to a challenging passage featuring an overhang that requires good use of arm strength and an athletic lunge.

The route's morphology alternates between vertical sections and oblique ledges, creating a discontinuous and physically intense rhythm. After a diagonal to the left, you face a very exposed and difficult traverse to the right; once past it, the cable rises vertically to a panoramic ledge, ideal for a rest with a view of the Ahrntal Valley. The climb continues with a series of vertical and diagonal pulls that quickly increase altitude and exposure, preceding a long traverse on an inclined slab. This section, while less demanding than the previous ones, is tiring due to the distance between the numerous stirrups.

The route maintains a predominantly vertical and technical character, with continuous passages requiring concentration. Once the traverse is completed, you reach a very exposed arête, where the cable turns 90 degrees, climbing to the right in an airy section that leads to one of the most iconic spots: a table with two benches fixed to the rock, for a unique rest with your feet dangling in the void. The final vertical section of the Pursteinwand then begins. You climb a polished and demanding wall, well-equipped with stirrups, before tackling a short but difficult oblique traverse to the right and an athletic overhang near a new arête.

The environment is dominated by smooth slabs and airy arêtes, with a development that exploits every discontinuity in the wall. You pass under a rocky roof, overcoming a first metal ladder, which requires a certain lunge. The cable then bends left under a prominent roof, in a position of strong exposure. A further vertical ascent and a subsequent traverse to the right, aided by some welcome stirrups, lead to a final overhanging leap, the first part of which is equipped with a second metal ladder. The exit from this passage remains very demanding, requiring climbing technique or pulling on the cable to overcome the rock's bulge. The final meters present a holdless traverse to the right, followed by the last vertical moves. The Pursteinwand Via Ferrata is completed in about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the start, for a total of 1 hour and 45 minutes from the parking lot.

Descent

Once the ferrata is finished, follow a clear trail in the woods that quickly leads to a forest road. Keeping right on the descent, follow the signs (marker 27A) that lead towards Sand in Taufers. Once you reach the paved road, continue south to the starting parking lot. The descent takes about 30 minutes, for a total hike time of 2 hours and 15 minutes.

Useful Notes

The Pursteinwand Via Ferrata is an athletic and atypical route in the panorama of South Tyrolean and Trentino via ferratas. It does not aim for a summit but deliberately seeks out technical difficulties and physically demanding passages on often polished rock, which requires a certain amount of pulling. The abundant use of metal equipment brings it closer to the style of French via ferratas and those of the Western Alps. The equipment is recent and in excellent condition, a crucial aspect given the nature of the climb. The route is varied and full of difficult passages, with a series of traverses and overhangs that test even experienced ferrataists. It can be useful to have a sling or a quickdraw to rest on the most demanding sections. A short itinerary, ideal for a half-day or in uncertain weather conditions that discourage longer excursions. In the area, for enthusiasts, other challenging itineraries are worth noting, such as the Hans Kammerlander Via Ferrata near Sand in Taufers or the long Ghiacciaio Camino Via Ferrata at the Schwarzenstein further north in the Ahrntal Valley.