Ferrata Tomaselli a Cima Fanes

Overview

The Ferrata Tomaselli is a high-commitment vertical route that cuts across the compact west face of the Punta di Fanes Sud. Its modest length is offset by a concentration of technical and physical difficulties, with athletic, consistently exposed sections that demand experience and upper-body strength. The itinerary unfolds largely across slabs and dihedrals of Dolomitic rock, offering a continuous and demanding progression. The final reward is the panoramic summit at 2960 meters, with a 360-degree view over the Tofane and the Dolomites of Badia.

Approach

The quickest starting point is Passo Falzarego (2105 m), reachable from Cortina d'Ampezzo, Val Badia, or Alleghe. From the pass, take the cable car up to Rifugio Lagazuoi (2752 m). From here, head north along trail 401, descending toward Forcella Lagazuoi (2573 m, about 15 minutes). It's advisable to keep left at the junction, following trail 20 on a gentle traverse. Then, turn right onto trail 20B, which runs mid-height along the west face of the Grande Lagazuoi until you reach the site of the old Bivacco della Chiesa (2655 m, about 1 hour from the refuge). The approach follows a path carved into the rock, typical of wartime routes, offering an early taste of the exposed environment. From here, following the signs and a faint track northward beneath the wall, you quickly reach the actual start of the Ferrata Tomaselli (total time from the cable car arrival: about 1 hour and 15 minutes).

Via Ferrata

The route's technical character becomes apparent immediately after the start. After the first few meters, you face a demanding diagonal traverse on polished rock, which heavily taxes the arms due to a lack of natural holds. This is followed by a short but very exposed 2-3 meter downclimb, just before a horizontal traverse, again on smooth rock, leading to a 4-5 meter vertical ascent. This initial sequence, developed on compact slab, is selective and requires decisive movement. After the traverse, a small ledge offers a spot to rest.

The climb continues vertically on exposed rock, with holds that are not always easy to spot, though the difficulties are slightly less than the initial traverse. After about 20 meters of challenging climbing, the rock becomes more fractured, and you reach a panoramic, debris-covered ledge. The pace changes: you then proceed along an exposed, unsecured trail, with a few switchbacks, up to a wide balcony. The route continues toward the wall of Cima Fanes, traversing left along a narrow, exposed ledge that, after a series of ups and downs, leads to the start of the second equipped section.

This second part begins with a horizontal stretch along the ledge, followed by a series of stepped rock bands. You then traverse a new exposed, unsecured ledge to the right, passing some cairns and rounding a corner to reach the start of the third and final section. Be careful not to veer left following the route of the Ferrata alla Cengia Veronesi. Instead, keep the ledge to the right, heading toward a vertical step that begins on a slab with good holds.

The climb becomes vertical and demanding once more, with sections assisted by rungs where the rock is smoother. You then reach a distinctive feature of the route: a long, airy equipped dihedral, developed alongside a deep crack. The first meters are particularly difficult, with rock offering few holds; you proceed by pulling on the cable until the crack, becoming diagonal, draws closer and provides some holds. The cable crosses the dihedral, allowing you to move to the right side where a stirrup aids progression. The dihedral remains very vertical and exposed, but in the central part, more holds appear. The final section, still very airy, runs along the right side of the crack and ends on a small rocky pulpit in a notch.

From the notch, the summit is close. You tackle two very exposed slabs, first vertical and then diagonal, until you reach a narrow ridge. With a few easy steps, you finally arrive on the summit of Cima Fanes Sud (2960 m). The climbing time from the start is about 1 hour and 45 minutes (3 hours total from Rifugio Lagazuoi).

Descent

From the summit, head northeast to begin the descent, which follows another quite challenging via ferrata. The first meters feature a series of vertical steps that require careful study to find the holds. You then traverse with a short overhanging section, demanding agility and decisive movement. Another characteristic passage is the descent inside a chimney, aided by a welcome stirrup halfway through the slightly overhanging section. Reaching a ledge, you tackle the final vertical meters to enter a gully that leads to the site of the Bivacco della Chiesa (about 45 minutes from the summit).

From here, to return to Passo Falzarego by cable car, retrace the approach trail back to Rifugio Lagazuoi (about 45 minutes from the bivouac, for a total of about 4 hours and 30 minutes). Alternatively, you can descend left of the ridge toward Forcella Travenanzes. From this notch, a crossroads of trails with numerous remains from the Great War, follow the path that descends to Passo Falzarego, reaching the starting point (about 1 hour and 15 minutes from the end of the equipped descent, for a total of about 5 hours).

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Tomaselli is a very well-marked but extremely challenging and exposed route. The difficulties are concentrated especially in the initial traverse and wall and, in the final part, in the long dihedral and slabs below the summit. The descent via ferrata is also not to be underestimated. Being north-facing and at high altitude, snowy sections may be encountered until June; wearing gloves during the descent is highly recommended. Given the high difficulty of some passages, it can be useful to know how to safely belay along the cable. For navigation, detailed topographic maps of the Cortina area and the Dolomites of Ampezzo or Val Badia are recommended.