Ferrata Spellini

Overview

The Ferrata Spellini is a recently established alpine route that connects the Rifugio Tosa Pedrotti to the Bocca degli Armi, integrating into the Bocchette system and serving as a link between the Bocchette Centrali and the Bocchette Alte. The itinerary is frequently included in a loop circuit that returns to the Rifugio Pedrotti. While it does not require complex technical maneuvers, it stands out for its considerable exposure throughout its entire length, set in a severe, typically alpine environment that demands proper preparation and constant focus.

Approach

The recommended starting point for the described loop-which involves ascending the Ferrata Spellini and returning via the Bocchette Centrali-is near the Baita Ciclamino above Molveno. From here, take the CAI trail 319, which with an initial moderate ascent reaches a junction. Take the left branch, still marked 319, which is steeper and leads to the Rifugio Selvata in about an hour and a half. Continuing on the same trail, you first reach the Rifugio Tosa and then the Rifugio Pedrotti, with an additional hour and a half from the Selvata (for a total of about 4 hours from the start).

From the Pedrotti, descend briefly toward the Rifugio Tosa and turn northeast onto the Sentiero Attrezzato Orsi (CAI 303). In about thirty minutes, you arrive at the junction of the Busa degli Sfulmini, where a specific sign marks the start of the Ferrata Spellini (about 4 hours and 45 minutes from the parking lot). There is a variant to avoid the final climb to the Pedrotti: about twenty minutes before the refuge, a well-marked detour leads directly to the Sentiero Attrezzato Orsi, reaching the start junction of the ferrata in about 4 hours total.

Via Ferrata

From the signpost at the Busa degli Sfulmini, ascend a gully on a well-marked trail with sustained steepness and several switchbacks, crossing scree slopes dominated by the majestic wall of the Campanil Basso. The actual start of the equipped route is indicated by a red sign. The route, which overcomes about 200 meters of elevation gain, winds across rock slabs, ledges, and several metal ladders, developing mainly along a ridge and exposed flank morphology.

The first section is easy, with some aid stirrups. You then encounter the first long ladder, demanding due to its tendency to lean outward, increasing the sense of exposure. A short but significant traverse leads to another short ladder. The progression alternates between sections on compact rock, walks along ledges, and a couple of simple traverses to more ladders. The last ladder is particularly long and strenuous, requiring physical endurance and attention. The exposure remains constantly very pronounced, although the passages do not present significant technical difficulties. After the last ladder, a brief sequence of equipped sections leads to the end of the ferrata at the Bocca degli Armi, marked by a metal plaque. The time from the Busa degli Sfulmini is about an hour and a half.

Descent

Once at the Bocca degli Armi, to complete the proposed loop, continue south along the Ferrata delle Bocchette Centrali. This exposed but well-protected trail offers exceptional views of the Cima di Brenta Alta and presents no particular technical difficulties. In two and a half hours, you reach the Bocca di Brenta, where the most challenging part ends, and in a quarter of an hour you are at the Rifugio Pedrotti. From here, descend back along the approach trail to the Baita Ciclamino in about 3 hours. The total time for the loop is about 11-12 hours.

Although it is possible to descend the Ferrata Spellini and return by the same route, combining it with the Bocchette Centrali is highly recommended for the scenic variety and overall satisfaction of the itinerary.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Spellini is often used as a descent route back to the Rifugio Pedrotti or as the conclusion of the Ferrata delle Bocchette Alte. Its main characteristic is the high exposure, accentuated by the presence of numerous metal ladders. The technical difficulties are limited, except for one traverse that requires careful assessment and the physical effort demanded by the longest ladders. Before starting the ferrata, it is advisable to check for any snow in the access gully. The equipment is generally new and in excellent condition.

For those planning an overnight stay at altitude, the Rifugio Alimonta (reachable in 45 minutes from the Bocca degli Armi) can serve as a base to tackle the Ferrata delle Bocchette Alte the following day, then returning to the Pedrotti via the Sentiero Attrezzato Orsi or the Sentiero Sosat.