Ferrata Tabaretta

Overview

The Ferrata Tabaretta is a recently constructed alpine route set in a severe, high-altitude environment. The itinerary tackles the imposing north face of the Ortles, beneath Punta Tabaretta, surpassing 3,000 meters with high technical difficulty. The experience combines extremely demanding rock progression with the constant exposure of a majestic face, demanding complete physical and psychological preparation. The route unfolds with no possibility of intermediate retreat, presenting a tight succession of difficult and very difficult passages, compensated by a grand panorama dominated by the north wall of the Ortles.

Approach

The logistical starting point is the top station of the Orso chairlift in Solda (2,330 m), reachable from the motorway (Bolzano Sud exit), continuing toward Merano and the Stelvio Pass until the turnoff for Solda. From the chairlift plateau, take trail CAI 10, which proceeds along the hillside to a junction. Here, turn left onto trail CAI 4A, circling clockwise around the mighty north walls of the Ortles. The route, easy and well-marked, then joins trail CAI 4, which with a few switchbacks leads to the Rifugio Tabaretta at 2,556 meters (about 45 minutes). Behind the refuge begins the trail for the "Ferrata - Parete Nord," which heads southwest and reaches the start of the route in fifteen minutes, at the foot of a massive rock bastion (1 hour total from the chairlift).

Via Ferrata

The ascent begins by climbing some easy rock steps near an edge, quickly gaining exposure. The initial scarce holds force a progression relying on pulling the steel cable. After this first section, a small ledge allows you to descend a few meters to tackle an exposed dihedral. Exiting the dihedral, a diagonal slab leads to a small terrace. Since 2019, the start has been modified, replacing the initial passages with a vertical wall about a hundred meters long, extremely exposed and poor in holds, which connects directly to the terrace.

From the terrace, climb rock steps to the right, then a vertical slab and a short traverse to the right that introduces a narrow dihedral. At its top, a roof forces a traverse to the left along a crack: this is a physically draining passage, where exposure adds to continuous effort. After the traverse, the cable rises vertically up a slightly overhanging section with scarce holds, to a panoramic terrace overlooking the Rifugio Tabaretta and the Ortles, an ideal spot for a brief rest.

Resume vertically, then angle diagonally to the right, tackling the ascending traverse of the Geelen Knott, the key passage of the entire route. This traverse, developed under a roof, is extremely demanding and offers very few footholds, requiring speed and arm strength. It is advisable to use a quickdraw or a sling to be able to rest. Beyond the roof, the cable continues vertically on another rope, always on smooth rock, to a resting point.

After climbing a few vertical meters and rounding an edge, you reach a wide terrace and a short ledge, from which you can observe the development of the next meters. Climb a slab of about twenty meters using some protrusions, then easy rock steps and a sloping section that introduces a new smooth slab, where pulling on the cable is necessary. A very exposed traverse to the right leads to one of the few more climbable sections of the route, followed by a progressively less difficult ascent.

This relative calm is brief: smooth slabs resume to gain altitude, until reaching an easier ridge section that serves as a connection. Arriving at the summit register, you face the final part. A climbable and exposed edge introduces a horizontal traverse, after which you ascend a demanding vertical wall with a small roof to overcome. Continue vertically on the edge, then with an ascending traverse to the right, demanding but better holds than the Geelen Knott. This leads beneath an airy and smooth dihedral, where the best holds are on the right side of the edge, but often insufficient without the aid of the cable. Exiting the dihedral to the left on a better-holded passage, you reach a final small terrace. A vertical slab, some rock steps, and a short chimney finally lead to the end of the steel equipment.

A path on gravel and stones connects to the ridge trail that from the Rifugio Payer ascends to the Ortles, leading to the highest point of the itinerary at 3,076 meters. A few meters lower, the Rifugio Payer is visible, reachable in a short time (about 2 hours from the start, 3 hours and 45 minutes total from the chairlift).

Descent

From the Rifugio Payer (3,029 m), follow the ridge trail CAI 4, with exposed and partially equipped sections, to the Forcella dell'Orso at 2,871 meters. From here, the trail descends steeply and initially exposed toward the Rifugio Tabaretta below, gradually becoming gentler in the Solda Valley (about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the Payer, 5 hours and 15 minutes total). From the Rifugio Tabaretta, return via the approach trail to the top station of the Orso chairlift (about 30 minutes, for a total of 5 hours and 45 minutes).

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Tabaretta ranks among the most demanding equipped routes in the Alps, perfectly equipped but not to be underestimated. The progression is continuous and relentless, with the majority of sections classifiable between difficult and very difficult, with extreme peaks such as the Geelen Knott. The high-altitude environment, above 3,000 meters and lacking escape routes before the Rifugio Payer, demands absolute preparation and attention to weather conditions: it is recommended to undertake it exclusively in the morning and with stable weather.

Compared to other very difficult ferratas, here the scarcity of holds in numerous passages particularly stresses arm strength. The use of a quickdraw or a sling to create resting points in the most critical sections is strongly recommended.