Sentiero Attrezzato al Bivacco Boccalatte-Piolti

Overview

The approach to the Boccalatte-Piolti Hut is a long, physically demanding alpine hike with significant elevation gain. Several stream crossings can complicate progress depending on seasonal conditions. The section equipped with fixed ropes and ladders, covering about 200 meters of vertical gain, represents only a portion of an itinerary with an undeniably mountaineering character, set in a severe and majestic environment. The starting point is Planpinceaux, in the municipality of Courmayeur in the Aosta Valley. After taking the left turn toward the hamlet's center, you reach a large parking area. Continuing uphill toward the village, near the Miravalle hotel-restaurant, you'll find the signs for trail number 21.

Approach

The first hour of walking proceeds at a relaxed pace and offers exceptional views of the Mont Blanc massif and the Grandes Jorasses. The route first climbs through a forest, then opens onto grassy slopes with a moderate gradient. About an hour from the start, you tackle two stream crossings as you work your way up the banks of a torrent. After these obstacles, you ascend a steep slab with moves of first and second grade, where you need to pay attention to the rock quality-not always solid-and the risk of slipping if it's damp. The path follows yellow trail markers, interspersed with short equipped sections. Shortly after, you encounter a metal ladder that eases the ascent of a rocky step about twenty meters high (total time from the start: about 1 hour 30 minutes). The route continues along a zigzagging moraine ridge, from which the destination begins to come into clearer view. After another hour of walking along the yellow-marked path, you turn left, crossing a snowfield, and head toward the imposing rock buttress on whose summit the hut sits.

The environment gradually transforms: you leave the forest behind and scramble up slabs and ledges, with the panorama opening up toward the north faces of the Grandes Jorasses. The pace becomes uneven, alternating sustained climbing sections with short traverses. The exposure increases noticeably, especially along the moraine ridge, though the trail generally remains wide and well-defined.

Via Ferrata

The final ascent goes over small rocks and gullies, aided by sturdy fixed ropes that cut across the slope to the left. You proceed following the fixed lines up to a rocky pulpit, then continue along an airy route that leads to the natural balcony where the Boccalatte-Piolti Hut is built. This equipped section takes about 30 minutes from the start of the fixed ropes, for a total ascent time from the parking lot of about 3 hours 30 minutes. From the hut, you enjoy a spectacular view of the Planpincieux Glacier. It's possible to continue the itinerary beyond the hut, using other fixed ropes, all the way to the glacier itself.

The character of this section is predominantly vertical and technical, though not extreme. The fixed ropes allow you to safely overcome exposed passages on solid rock, often arranged on sloping ledges. The environment is severe: the limestone buttress dominates the glacial basin, creating a sharp contrast between the warmth of the rock and the cold of the glacier below. The itinerary is continuously scenic, with views ranging from the glacier to the surrounding walls.

Descent

The return is via the same route as the ascent, with an estimated time of about 3 hours. The descent requires particular attention on the exposed sections and on the slab, where the rock can be slippery. The return along the moraine ridge and the stream crossings completes the circular experience in a challenging alpine environment.

Useful Notes

This itinerary is reserved for experienced hikers and leads to the base of the demanding ascents of the Grandes Jorasses. During the final traverse across the snowfield, it is essential to pay attention to the glacier above, which may shed ice debris: wearing a helmet is strongly recommended. The Boccalatte-Piolti Hut is usually open on weekends in June and daily in July and August; for updated information, it's advisable to contact the Turin section of the CAI. Numerous other hiking opportunities and via ferratas are available in the vicinity.