Ferrata Bivacco Borelli

Overview

This equipped route, compact in length but rich in challenges, reaches the distinctive Bivacco Borelli, nestled in the rugged environment of the Val Veny. The itinerary covers a total elevation gain of about 200 meters, combining via ferrata sections with unprotected trail segments. The climb culminates in some demanding passages, including a highly exposed traverse in the final stages before the destination.

Approach

Access begins from the locality of Purtud in Val Veny, reachable from Courmayeur. On the main road, the sign "Peuterey" marks a right turn: cross a bridge over the stream and immediately turn left, continuing to the hamlet of Purtud and the parking area. From the parking lot, take trail marker 19 for Bivacco Borelli. The path crosses extensive pastures before entering the Peterey forest. After leaving the woods and passing a waterworks structure, follow a dirt road up the small valley flanked by Monte Rouge on the left and Monte Noire on the right. The trail leads to the bank of a stream, which you ascend keeping to the right bank, ignoring any side paths. After passing a spectacular waterfall, turn left following yellow markings, leaving the red dots that continue to the right. Here you encounter the first rocky outcrops (1890 m), reached about one hour from the start.

Via Ferrata

The start of the via ferrata unfolds across sloping rock slabs with no significant technical difficulties. The route winds along ledges and short rises, with cables leading to an airy but manageable gully. You then reach a chimney that is easily climbed thanks to good natural holds. This is followed by an unroped trail section over loose, unstable terrain that requires caution. Next comes a second chimney, more challenging than the first due to fewer handholds, demanding careful progression. After overcoming this passage, you face the first vertical ladder, about five meters high, exposed but straightforward to climb. The via ferrata continues with a highly exposed traverse, reached after rounding a corner with the aid of a cable and pegs. This segment is psychologically demanding and requires an absolute absence of vertigo, while offering exceptional views of the Val Veny. Beyond the traverse, you ascend a second ladder. You then follow an equipped section along a rocky ramp, exposed but not difficult. This leads to the crux of the entire via ferrata: a second traverse, sloping, on smooth rock and extremely exposed, where a few natural spikes provide essential support for the ascent. After the final equipped rock steps, the via ferrata ends about one hour from the start (two hours total from the parking lot). Finally, cross a debris-filled valley, passing beneath the imposing south face of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, to reach Bivacco Borelli, tucked under the rock. This last stretch takes about 40 minutes, for a total ascent time of 2 hours and 40 minutes.

Descent

The return follows the same route as the ascent, so you descend the entire via ferrata in reverse. The complete itinerary takes about 5 hours. Maximum caution is required when descending the equipped sections, especially the last sloping traverse, which heavily taxes arm strength.

Useful Notes

Though not particularly long, this via ferrata in Val Veny should not be underestimated. The environment, while not at high altitude, is demanding, and the equipped sections are exposed, with a couple of complex passages. The cable is not always optimally tensioned, especially on the traverses, which increases difficulty and effort during progression. It is essential to undertake the hike only in stable weather, as the basin of Bivacco Borelli is often shrouded in fog when conditions deteriorate. From the bivouac, it is possible to continue toward Col Chasseur, visible from the structure, by ascending the debris-filled valley on the left side (opposite the bivouac) to a small equipped gully at the steepest points. This section is less demanding than the main via ferrata and allows you to reach Rifugio Monzino, the endpoint of the Ferrata Garda, on a two-day hike that requires experience in alpine terrain. Given its duration, the excursion to Bivacco Borelli typically takes a full day. For those wanting to combine other activities, the area offers equipped routes such as the Ferrata Marguerettaz, the Ferrata al Rifugio Monzino, the Sentiero Attrezzato al Mont de la Brenva, or the equipped trail to Bivacco Boccalatte.