Ferrata Roghel

Overview

The Ferrata Aldo Roghel leads to Forcella delle Guglie on the western side of Vallon de Popera, between the Campanili di Popera and Stallata in the Sesto Dolomites. The itinerary involves substantial ascent and generally medium difficulty, with a distinctly harder, athletic central sector requiring strength and sustained movement.

Approach

The starting point is Rifugio Lunelli (1950 m), reached from the Belluno side of Passo Monte Croce di Comelico by following the Valgrande road to its end. From the refuge, take trail 101, climbing initially west before turning south on a sustained gradient.

After a long series of hairpins, reach a stream and leave the route towards Rifugio Berti, following signs for trails 109 and 110. Continue up the steep, sometimes unstable slopes of Canalone dei Fulmini to the start of the ferrata at about 2350 m, around 2 hours from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

The ferrata begins with a rising traverse to the right, marked by red arrows, leading to a notch in the rock. Round an arête, climb a vertical wall with good holds and continue over rocky steps without particular difficulties to a ledge leading to a chimney suitable for climbing on natural holds.

After a further ledge, enter the hardest part of the itinerary, where the line narrows and becomes markedly steeper. Climb the right-hand side of a gully, alternating vertical sections, ramps and short descents towards its base. The crux is a wall about twenty metres high, often damp and partly overhanging. Some metal steps assist the climb, but it is very physically demanding.

Beyond this passage, a less technical section still places considerable demands on the arms before reaching a small terrace. The final stretch climbs directly to the notch of Forcella delle Guglie (2565 m), where the ascent's fixed equipment ends, about 1 hour from the start.

From the col, an equipped descent follows a steep gully and must not be underestimated. It loses height rapidly towards the scree valley below, reaching a junction where the ferrata ends.

Descent

The itinerary ends at the junction of trails 109 and 110. Several options are available: descend towards Giralba via Bivacco Battaglione Cadore, continue towards Rifugio Carducci along Cengia Gabriella, or retrace the Ferrata Roghel. The first two options involve long walking times and additional elevation changes; retracing the ferrata is the shorter option if tired.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Aldo Roghel is long and demanding, particularly in the central gully, where strength and careful management of energy are necessary. At Forcella delle Guglie, assess your physical condition carefully before choosing the return route. If you do not have sufficient energy to continue, it is preferable to retrace the ferrata. Attempt the itinerary only in stable weather.