Ferrata Berti al Sorapiss
Belluno · Italy

Cimon della Froppa · Belluno · Italy
The Sentiero Attrezzato degli Alpini at Forcella Jau Tana is a serious alpine undertaking in the rugged heart of the Marmarole range. The route is defined by considerable elevation gain and unfolds in a remote, seldom-visited setting. The short cable-and-ladder sections present only modest technical difficulty; the real challenge lies in the prolonged exposure on unprotected terrain, which must be avoided at all costs in bad weather.
The access point is the locality of Stua, near Calalzo di Cadore. From Calalzo, head toward Pian dei Buoi along a narrow paved road that penetrates the forest of the Val d'Oten. After about 2.5 km, at the fork, turn right and continue for another 2.5 km to the parking area.
From the parking at Stua (1555 m), take trail 261, which climbs steeply through numerous wooded switchbacks. Pass Costapiana (1337 m) in about 30 minutes and continue to La Serra, recognizable by a commemorative marker. The trail then moderates, leading to the Rifugio Chiggiato (1911 m) in a total of roughly 2 hours.
Leaving the refuge to the north, follow the Alta Via 5 route and markers 260/262 toward Forcella Sacu, where you encounter a first short protected section (1914 m, 15 minutes from the refuge). From this pass, the character of the route changes dramatically: it climbs northeast, tracing a traverse across the southern walls of the Cimon della Froppa. The path runs along narrow, highly exposed ledges carved into solid dolomite, offering an immediate, stark preview of the severe terrain ahead. The objective of the ascent-the notch of Forcella Jau Tana-gradually comes into view. About an hour from Forcella Sacu, you cross a debris-filled gully and encounter the first fixed structures of the equipped route (approximately 3h 15' total).
The equipped section proper begins with a 20-meter climb over rock steps, followed by a first metal ladder. Proceed aided by cables, ascending a gully that aims toward the drainage below the forcella. After overcoming a second short metal ladder and rounding a corner, the climb continues. These brief protected sections, of modest technical difficulty, are interspersed with long stretches of exposed, unprotected trail that demand constant focus and absolute surefootedness. The route stays on the right side of the upper valley, with sparse protection, in a succession of rocky ribs and ledges that require sustained physical effort. Finally, you gain Forcella Jau Tana after a persistent ascent (about 1 hour from the start of the ferrata, 4h 15' total).
From the forcella, dominated by the imposing mass of the Cimon della Froppa, the route turns right toward Forcella delle Marmarole. You follow a high-altitude connecting traverse across summit screes, often on unstable, shifting ground. Reaching Forcella delle Foppe (2790 m), a partially protected descent begins, leading to Forcella Marmarole (2661 m) in about 1 hour and 15 minutes from Jau Tana.
The difficulties are not over. The descent continues down the Vallon del Froppa, a steep gully with extremely unstable footing. The first meters are protected by cables, but this is followed by a roughly 20-minute section of particularly demanding descent due to the steep slope, exposure, and loose scree, where maximum caution is imperative. This sector, alpine in character, is one of the most physically and psychologically taxing parts of the entire route. Once the scree slope ends, you join trail 262, marking the conclusion of the Sentiero Attrezzato Jau Tana (about 1 hour from Forcella Marmarole, 6h 30' total).
From the junction with trail 262, descend south (right) following the same marker. Re-cross Forcella Sacu and return via the approach route to the Rifugio Chiggiato, then continue down to the parking at Stua. This return leg takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes, bringing the total hike time to approximately 8 hours and 15 minutes.
The technical difficulty of the short protected sections is modest. The real commitment of this route in the Marmarole Group lies in the prolonged exposure on unprotected passages and unstable terrain. The first significant exposures appear even before the fixed equipment, but the most critical sections are the connecting traverse between Forcella Jau Tana and Forcella delle Marmarole and, even more so, the descent of the Vallon del Froppa. In this final sector, telescopic trekking poles can be a great help for stability. The environment is wild and isolated; once at altitude, you are far from any refuge, except for the Bivacco Tiziano on the opposite side. This itinerary therefore demands excellent physical fitness, mountain experience, and the ability to move confidently on exposed and friable terrain.
Track and weather
Preview and download the GPX track, open parking directions, and check a short forecast before leaving.
GPX track unavailable · Via ferrata location
Use the technical data on this page to plan equipment, timing and offline navigation. For a general checklist, read the equipment guide before opening the route in the app.
Video
Useful YouTube videos for getting a real feel for the route before you go.
Logbook
Recent community notes about closures, snow, equipment damage, trail issues and current conditions.
Community
-
0 reviews
0
0 climbers
0
Shared by the community
Recent images uploaded by Sferrati members.
No community photos yet
Open this route in the app to add the first photo.
Recent impressions from climbers who know the route.
No reviews yet
Be the first to review this via ferrata from the app.
Track the climb, save maps offline, and sync this route to your personal profile.
Use the app to climb
Scan the code before leaving, install the app, and keep your route data ready when reception fades.
