Ferrata al Monte Zermula

Overview

The Ferrata Amici della Montagna is a loop route that takes on the north face of Monte Zermula in the Carnic Alps. The route presents no major technical difficulties and is characterized by progression over well-shaped, solid limestone rich in holds, interspersed with crest sections. The itinerary unfolds in an environment rich in historical traces of the Great War, adding a cultural dimension to the hike. Its strategic position near the Passo del Cason di Lanza (1552 m) makes it easy to combine with the nearby Ferrata dello Zuc della Guardia, ideal for a longer, more complete alpine day. The starting point, in the province of Udine, can be reached from Pontebba (generally recommended for better road conditions) or from Paularo; ample parking is available at the pass.

Approach

From the parking lot at Cason di Lanza (1552 m), cross the road heading south toward a white former barracks with green window frames. Just beyond, a sign indicates the right turn for Monte Zermula. Follow the trail markers 442 (white-red and yellow-red), which stay on a gentle traverse through a conifer forest, leading to the base of the mountain's north face. The trail then climbs a debris-filled gully, which must be crossed diagonally to access the western side. Here, at 1833 meters (about 1 hour from the parking lot), you'll find the start of the via ferrata, clearly marked by a large yellow-red paint blotch and a metal plaque. Caution: early in the season, the gully may be covered by a large patch of residual snow.

Via Ferrata

The steel cable is located a few meters above the start point; climb up some small slabs to clip into the fixed line, which ascends at a moderate angle beside a dihedral. The wall is steep but offers excellent natural holds and some pitons, ensuring smooth, never overly demanding progression. You gain altitude quickly, exit the dihedral, and tackle a new wall, still well-supplied with holds, climbing leftward. An easy traverse to the left allows you to descend a few meters, then continue in exposure to the left until a temporary end of the equipment.

The route alternates vertical sections on compact rock with brief rests on ledges, creating a pleasantly varied rhythm. After a few meters on an un-equipped trail and a narrow ledge, you encounter a vertical wall with slabs that, upon approach, reveals itself to be rich in grooves and pockets. After overcoming an athletic move over a pronounced bulge, the difficulty eases. Climb up slabs and then a vertical wall similar to the initial one, entering a dihedral on well-sculpted rock. Reaching a panoramic terrace, you set off again for a few vertical meters, bend left onto a narrow ledge, and arrive at the base of a prominent debris chute.

The cable resumes vertically on excellent rock, pleasantly bending to the left. Another terrace offers a view of the approach gully. Climb a series of stepped rock ledges, then a small wall with a few slightly more challenging and overhanging bulges. After more rock ledges, you gain the crest, move onto the southern side of Monte Zermula, and here the equipment ends (2085 m, about 1 hour from the start).

The route is predominantly vertical, with continuous development that requires a good pace of progression, but without technically complex sections. Now continue on a crest trail, at times a bit exposed but comfortable with elementary passages. The track bends right, skirts a shoulder, and reveals the green summit of Zermula. Following it, you reach the metal summit cross at 2145 meters (15 minutes from the end of the via ferrata, 1 hour 15 minutes from the start, 2 hours 15 minutes total from the parking lot).

Descent

For the return, the fascinating Cresta delle Trincee (Ridge of the Trenches) is recommended. From the summit, descend to the junction encountered on the ascent (10 minutes) and continue along the crest following the signs, staying high and avoiding descending on trail 442. This open-air museum trail runs just below the crest line and is dotted with trenches, positions, barracks, and carvings from the Great War. During the descent, Zuc della Guardia is clearly visible. Descend gradually until you join the underlying trail 442 at 1950 meters, then keep left to reach the Forcella di Lanza (1831 m, about 1 hour from the summit).

From the notch, descend toward Cason di Lanza on trail 442a. After a few minutes, you encounter a crucial junction: Continuing downhill on the obvious track leads directly to the Passo del Cason di Lanza and the parking lot (30 minutes from Forcella Lanza, for a total of about 3 hours 45 minutes). Turning right, instead, climbs the track for the Ferrata Zuc della Guardia, a moderately difficult option recommended if you have energy and favorable weather conditions (adds about 45 minutes, for a total of 4 hours 30 minutes).

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Amici della Montagna on Monte Zermula is a pleasant and climbable hike, never excessively difficult. The route combines a physically continuous but not exhausting ascent with a historical-panoramic descent, offering a complete experience. Some sections are exposed, but the rock in good condition and the well-maintained cable make the climb very enjoyable. From the summit, you enjoy an exceptional panorama of the main Carnic groups. The return along the trench route adds strong historical and scenic value. The itinerary, inaugurated in July 1983 by the Amici della Montagna group of Paularo, is often combined with the nearby Ferrata dello Zuc della Guardia. The area also offers other interesting via ferrata possibilities, such as the Ferrata Crete Rosse and the Ferrata Uiberlackersteig on Creta di Aip, or the more challenging Ferrata Contin and Torre Clampil toward the Passo di Pramollo.